May Cause Price Increases for 1981, 1982 and 1983 Vintages : 1984 Bordeaux Red Wines Are Average Quality, Characterized as ‘Useful’

The 1984 vintage for the red wines of Bordeaux will be characterized by most wine authorities as useful, a term generally reserved for a harvest that produces wine of average quality that is neither the best nor the worst. If prices are reasonable, even low, then the vintage becomes even more useful for those who enjoy a decent bottle of claret while awaiting a more successful harvest.

The problem with 1984 is not so much the quality of vintage but rather what cost consequences it creates for the recent vintages of 1981, 1982 and 1983, all considered to be good, with 1982 as spectacular. The year 1984 will surely make those prices rise, which is a matter of concern for all wine drinkers.

If the Bordeaux vintners and their agents are smart, the 1984 wines, except for some of the major Grand Cru Classe Chateaux, will be priced in the $10-to-$15 range, and in many cases less. If that is not the case, some well-known claret labels may languish on wine shop shelves.

Climatically the vines could have fared better. After a cold late winter with average rainfall, the month of April was exceptionally mild with above normal temperatures. Rainfall was 70% below average, and there was plenty of sunshine. May was rainy with 25% less sunshine than normal, whereas June conditions were average. July and August featured above average temperatures and plenty of sunshine, and September was divided into two periods. The first half was normal but colder than average, and the second half was unusually rainy.

Growth of the Grapes Slowed

Two major problems occurred. One, because of relatively poor weather in May, the growth of the grapes slowed and resulted in a problem described in French as coulure , which is the failure of the fertilization of the flowers through the loss of pollen. Merlot and Cabernet-Franc grapes were especially affected, while Cabernet Sauvignon fared somewhat better since it flowers a bit later. White wine grapes suffered no special problem.

The second major problem occurred during October when Bordeaux was struck by a cyclone early in the month. Primarily hit were crops along the Atlantic Coast such as oysters, corn and sunflowers. There are those who believe the vines were not affected, although harvesting was temporarily halted when the soil was drenched.

Also believed is that the cyclone helped preserve the claret crop in that clouds were swept away by violent winds, resulting in the Bordeaux region enjoying fine weather for the harvest. Some vintners suggest the cyclone saved the crop.

Saved or not, the wines generally are thin, light structured, not intensely flavored but with adequate fruit and even some aging ability to make for attractive, mellow, soft, early-to-drink wine. As a vintage, it is far superior to 1977 and 1980, both classed as poor vintages.

The total crop for better appellation red wine is more than 50 million gallons, down 39% from 1983, whereas the white wines (sweet and dry) at 23 million gallons are down by only 1%. If Bordeaux must sustain a small crop as this, then it is best that it not be a great one.

Too Early To Comment

The 1985 crop apparently is much more successful. There were no coulure problems with relatively good climatic conditions throughout the growing and flowering seasons and a harvest that some described as perfect. By contrast to ‘84, 102 million gallons of red wine were produced, a rather sizable crop, which may serve to bring and keep prices down, provided there is no stampede to buy. Early prognosticators are suggesting it may be as good as ‘82, which is too premature a comment.

At a tasting recently of a delegation of Bordeaux wine producers representing the Union Des Grands Crus De Bordeaux, many of the barrel samples showed characteristically of the vintage. Several showed extremely well. Best of the bunch were Chateaux Cos-D’Estournel, Montrose and Giscours.

Cos (St. Estephe) supplied an attractive one-dimensional aroma, with flavor intensity and structure apparently better than the vintage, together with requisite power to age. Montrose (St. Estephe) showed more delicacy in nose, also a big structure for the vintage, good lingering ability and style and perhaps the best fruit of all. Aging potential is higher here. Giscours (Margaux) reflected a very light nose that is just beginning to develop, and a rather bold, strong structure with fine flavor intensity. It should age well, but quickly.

Also showing well is Pichon-Longueville-Comesse De Lalande (Pauillac) with a splendid floral style, Cabernet-Merlot, nose delicacy and good supple structure with fine flavor intensity. It showed the most elegant of all with only a hint of wood showing.

Kirwan (Margaux) displayed good berry flavor, not a strong structure, some charm and a fast aging character. Grand-Puy-Lacoste (Pauillac) showed little fruit but a soft supple style, which should age attractively. Haut-Batailley (Pauillac) provided a closed-in nose and a capacity for short-term aging. Brane-Cantenac (Margaux), although thin in structure and with a bit of tannin showing, provided good fruit and aging ability, but overall was overpowered by oak. Branaire-Ducru (St. Julien) sustained the same wood problem.

That may be a concern with a number of these wines, which may or may not show well, given several years of aging, considering that they did not acquire adequate fruit to compensate for Bordeaux’s traditional practice of aging in new oak. Frequently, new oak will dominate until the wine matures, which, of course, may never occur.

Might Be an Agreeable Wine

Chateau Dauzac (Margaux) may be typical of the wines of its region. Here is a big floral nose, some elegance but without the flavor, charm and structure generally found in a good year. Aging should help as it will for Chateau Poujeaux (Moulis), also affected by lack of flavor and structure. Nevertheless, it will be an agreeable wine if drunk early and priced accordingly.

Wines from other districts, St. Emilion, Pomerol and Graves, may not show as well because of greater reliance on Merlot, which was negatively affected by the vintage. Respectable are Pavie-Decesse (St. Emilion) with better than average aroma, a medium structure and fair flavor. Buy and drink early. Pavie, also a St. Emilion, showed a bit more charm but again was hampered by thinness of structure and lack of flavor.

Chateau La Croix De Gay (Pomerol) gave a rather nice Merlot style nose, some flavor, but appeared disjointed. Time may bring it together. Petit Village (Pomerol) showed on the same level with an earthy flavor style without any redeeming charm, yet with adequate fruit to develop over the next several year. La Louviere (Graves) exhibited an early earthy style, a light structure with adequate fruit and tannin to develop over three to five years. Fourcas-Hosten (Listrac) may develop nicely with medium structure and fruit, notwithstanding an overall lightness of style and character.

The key to this 1984 vintage will be a matter of consumer cost, provided the wines develop well, and they should. At best, the wines will be agreeable everyday table wines without superhype and excessive expectation. Priced right, the vintage could give new meaning to the word useful.