BROWNIES

The humble brownie, with all of its variations, has established itself as an all-American comfort food and is an easy dessert to whip up. This old favorite standby now has gone upscale, appearing in the dessert repertoire of exclusive restaurants, caterers and gourmet takeout shops.

All brownies are not created equal.

Some are fudgy, whereas others are cake-like and spongy.

Some are crusty on the outside and gooey inside. And then there are brownies that are just thin, crisp and chewy.

Brownies aren’t brownies if they aren’t glazed, some people think, whereas others frown on any fleck of frosting on top.

Some brownie freaks love to have these cookie bars cold, grabbing their sweet “fix” straight out of the freezer. But there are also fans who insist on having them fresh from the oven, comfortingly warm and wafting with the aroma of cocoa.

And what good are brownies if they don’t have nuts? Or if they’re missing the sinful chocolate that makes them so addictive? But then, too, blond brownies or butterscotch brownies have quite a following, justifying their tasteful existence.

With all this sweet controversy, brownies will never attain a perfect image of what they should be. It all depends on individual tastes. In fact, this flattened creation that stands between a cake and a cookie may have started out as a mistake, back in the 1920s. Folklore tells us that the brownie evolved from a fallen cake . . . possibly the leavening could have been left out.

The humble brownie may not be as classy as a snobbish Napoleon or as dressy as a gateau St. Honore, but through the years it has proved itself to be an all-American comfort food, or even better, a reviving food. However, guised in the same look as before, the little guy has gone upscale these days. You’ll find brownies in the dessert repertoire of not just bakeries but quite a few exclusive restaurants, caterers and gourmet takeouts waiting to appease the appetite of a brownie-loving soul.

In deepest chocolate tones contrasted with a sprinkling of powdered sugar, a luscious truffle-like brownie generates return customers to Julienne, a country French gourmet takeout kitchen and bistro in San Marino. “Brownies are such a subjective thing,” says Susan B. Campoy, one of the shop’s three owners, “but I like them fudgy. Our truffle brownie evolved from a combination of several recipes, which I fooled around with and added more eggs and chocolate.”

Indeed a dieter’s “evil” friend, Julienne’s rich brownies call for a whole pound of chocolate in a single recipe. As in many fine restaurants, the San Marino kitchen uses Callebaut brand chocolate, but according to Campoy, if this is not available to the consumer, an ideal substitute is Peter’s chocolate (bittersweet or semisweet). Formerly exclusive to commercial bakers and restaurateurs, the Callebaut product, however, can now be ordered through mail-order food houses. A good source is S. E. Rykoff; to place an order, call its toll-free number, (800) 421-9873 or write for a retail catalogue at S. E. Rykoff & Co., P.O. Box 21467, Los Angeles 90021.

Freely sharing her recipe, Campoy advises: “It’s important to whip up the mixture until it turns light colored and mousse-like. In fact, you can even turn the same recipe into a mousse by separating the eggs and omitting the flour.”

Among the brownies that The Times’ Test Kitchen tested for this feature, Susan’s Raspberry Brownies turned out to be a special sensuous treat. The combination of chocolate and raspberries never fails, it seems.

The beautiful brownies were created by Susan Holtz of Dessert Design, a personalized dessert catering service in the San Fernando Valley. She says the dessert is a loose adaptation of a recipe from Judith Olney’s book, “Joy of Chocolate” (Barron: $14.95). Moist, dark and thin brownie layers are filled with raspberry jam, spread on top with melted chocolate, then marbled with a white chocolate glaze. To gratify the senses, the fresh raspberry finale on top is an expensive must.

Holtz’s original creation for her catering repertoire is more wicked than the recipe we’ve provided here. She fills and tops two dark brownie layers with a thick white chocolate frosting, and for each serving makes a pretty design of a chocolate-stemmed raspberry nesting in a molded dark chocolate cup.

As with any brownie, the type of chocolate used will make a difference in flavor, Holtz remarked. Cookbook author Elaine Sherman in her “Madame Chocolate’s Book of Divine Indulgences” (Contemporary: $15.95), which incidentally offers a number of brownie recipes, agrees with this. She writes: “Bittersweet will give you the deepest chocolate taste; semisweet will give you a rich sweet but chocolate taste; and milk chocolate will afford a more subtle taste.”

The rough-edged pecan brownies with a cracked top at the Brownie Boutique in Beverly Hills may appear crude and homemade, but they manage to beckon brownie enthusiasts at a sinful $1.75 for each little square. Carried by Neiman-Marcus Beverly Hills store for five years, the original Gena’s Brownies have found their own home with two new relatives, amaretto and coconut, at the recently opened store. If you ever stop by for a sampling, note the boutique’s magnificently designed stained glass bijou or temple.

A southern legacy, the original brownie was Eugenia (Gena) Dozier Dolson’s creation from an old recipe that her great grandmother tucked away in her trunk when she sailed from France to this country. Unfortunately, Gena will not divulge her secret, but she did say that the brownies are made with cocoa powder.

Roberta Deen of the City Catering and Fine Foods in Claremont makes miniature brownies in a cup that she calls Tylers. Inspired by a Maida Heatter drop cookie recipe in 1981, the brownie mounds, little as they are, have a lot to offer with their espresso flavor, coconut and chocolate chips. “They are best eaten the day they are baked,” Deen says, “but if properly baked and stored airtight, they can be wonderful for four to five days. If the brownies are overdone in the oven, they will not keep at all.”

There’s really not much to baking a brownie, a sort of a dump cake or a one-bowl affair. Nothing can go wrong unless you leave it in the oven too long, causing it to dry out and the chocolate taste to die. For moister, fudge-textured brownies, reduce the amount of flour or underbake slightly.

Using the correct pan size also plays a major role. If the batter is deeper, the brownies will be cake-like, whereas if shallower, it will be dry. The addition of baking powder and increasing the amount of eggs will make a higher-volumed, cake-like brownie. A higher sugar level produces a more tender inside texture but crustier top, and as said before, the amount and type of chocolate used will make the difference. Brownies keep well in the freezer; if the mixture is the cake type, they tend to dry out in the refrigerator.

Beginning on Page 1 are some of our better brownies, including those delicious treats from our contributors. There’s also a Killer Brownie with an orange-flavored liqueur added; an ultra-fudgy Cream Cheese Macadamia Brownie; a pistachio-mint (good for St. Patrick’s Day) and the classic Yankee brownie which you may alter with any desired topping. It shouldn’t take long to whip up a batch for someone special on Valentine’s Day, or any day. After all, there’s nothing more reviving than curling up in private with a big glass of milk and a heavenly brownie.

KILLER BROWNIES

1 1/2 cups sifted flour

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup butter or margarine

3 (1-ounce) squares unsweetened chocolate

3 eggs

2 cups sugar

6 tablespoons orange liqueur, amaretto or coffee liqueur

1 to 1 1/2 cups chopped walnuts or almonds

Line bottom of 9-inch square pan with greased parchment paper or foil. Resift flour with baking powder and salt. Melt butter with chocolate in double boiler or heavy saucepan over very low heat. Cool.

Beat eggs with sugar until light. Stir in chocolate mixture and 4 tablespoons liqueur. Add flour mixture to blend. Stir in walnuts.

Turn into prepared pan. Bake at 350 degrees 30 to 35 minutes or until top springs back when touched lightly in center and edges begin to pull away from pan. Do not overbake. Remove from oven and cool thoroughly in pan placed on rack. Brush top with remaining 2 tablespoons liqueur. Makes about 2 dozen.

JULIENNE’S CHOCOLATE TRUFFLE BROWNIES

1 pound semisweet chocolate, cut up

2/3 cup butter

1 1/4 cups sugar

6 eggs

3/4 cup flour

1 1/2 cups coarsely chopped hazelnuts or walnuts, about

Powdered sugar

Melt chocolate in top of double boiler over hot, not boiling, water. Cool slightly. Cream butter until light.

Add melted chocolate and beat on medium speed until of mousse-like consistency and light-colored. Slowly beat in sugar. Add eggs, 1 at a time, beating well.

Fold in flour, then nuts. Pour into buttered and parchment paper-lined jellyroll pan and smooth top.

Bake at 350 degrees 20 to 25 minutes or until slightly cracked on top. Chill. Sprinkle with powdered sugar, then cut into bars. Makes about 3 dozen.

Note: The amount of chopped nuts may vary from 1 to 2 cups, depending on individual preference.

SUSAN’S RASPBERRY BROWNIES

Cocoa powder

3 ounces unsweetened chocolate

9 1/2 ounces bittersweet (or semisweet) chocolate

3/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 tablespoon Cognac

1 1/2 teaspoons instant espresso powder

4 eggs

2 cups plus 8 teaspoons sugar

1 1/4 cups flour

6 tablespoons raspberry jam

3 ounces white chocolate

1 tablespoon water

1 basket fresh raspberries

Brush bottom of jellyroll pan with butter. Line with parchment paper. Butter paper and sprinkle with cocoa powder.

Combine unsweetened chocolate, 3 1/2 ounces bittersweet chocolate and 3/4 cup unsalted butter in top of double boiler. Stir to blend and heat over hot, not boiling, water until melted. Cool 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in Cognac and espresso.

Place eggs in bowl of mixer and beat 1 minute or until slightly thickened. Slowly add 2 cups sugar, about 2 tablespoons at a time, beating continuously about 8 to 10 minutes or until eggs remain in a pattern on surface when dropped from mixer paddle. Fold in chocolate mixture just until blended.

Combine flour with remaining 8 teaspoons sugar and sift over chocolate mixture while mixing in folding motion. Pour batter into jellyroll pan and smooth top. Bake at 325 degrees 15 minutes. Cover with foil and continue baking 10 minutes longer.

Scrape out thin top crust from surface of brownie with knife, brushing crumbs away. Turn out onto board and remove paper liner. Cut in half crosswise. Chill, covered.

Spread one half with raspberry jam. Cover with second half. Melt remaining 6 ounces bittersweet chocolate. Spread on top.

Grate white chocolate and melt with 1 tablespoon butter and water in double boiler. Drizzle over chocolate, and using spoon or small spatula, make marble design. Cut brownies in bars and garnish top with raspberries. Makes 60 to 70 brownies.

TYLERS (Brownies in a Cup)

2 (1-ounce) squares unsweetened chocolate, grated or finely chopped

6 (1-ounce) squares semisweet chocolate, grated

2 tablespoons butter

1/4 cup sifted flour

1/4 teaspoon baking powder

1/8 teaspoon salt

6 ounces semisweet chocolate pieces

8 ounces (about 2 cups) pecans, walnuts or hazelnuts, coarsely chopped

1/2 cup shredded coconut

2 eggs

3/4 cup sugar

2 teaspoons instant coffee or espresso powder (or more to taste)

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Line 40 mini-muffin cups (4 pans) with paper or foil cups. Melt grated unsweetened and grated semisweet chocolate squares with butter over hot water, stirring until smooth. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature.

Resift flour with baking powder and salt. Mix semisweet chocolate pieces, nuts and coconut.

Beat eggs, sugar, coffee and vanilla at high speed until thick and fluffy, about 3 to 4 minutes. Beat in cooled chocolate mixture. Beat in sifted dry ingredients at low speed just until batter is blended and smooth. Do not overbeat.

Mix in chocolate-nut mixture. Fill paper cups, about 2 teaspoons each. Do not press down or smooth out. Bake at 350 degrees 10 minutes until tops are dry and crisp. (The inside will be soft.) Never overbake. Cool in pans until firm enough to handle. Store airtight. Makes 40 to 42 miniature brownies.

CREAM CHEESE-MACADAMIA BROWNIES

2 (1-ounce) squares unsweetened chocolate

1/2 cup butter

1 cup sugar

2 eggs, beaten

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/4 cup flour

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup macadamia nuts, hazelnuts or walnuts, coarsely chopped

1 (3-ounce) package cream cheese, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1 (6-ounce) package semisweet chocolate pieces

Melt unsweetened chocolate and butter in double boiler (or use heavy saucepan and heat over very low heat). Remove from heat and stir in sugar. Add eggs and vanilla. Stir in flour, salt and macadamias until blended.

Turn into buttered 8-inch square pan. Drop in cubes of cream cheese. Bake at 325 degrees 35 to 40 minutes. Quickly sprinkle semisweet chocolate pieces all over top. Return to oven 3 minutes. Spread chocolate evenly over top. Cool. Cut into squares or bars. Makes about 16 brownies.

SWEET TURTLE BROWNIES

1 pound caramels

2/3 cup evaporated milk

3/4 cup butter or margarine, softened

1 (18.5-ounce) package devil’s-food cake mix

1 cup chopped pecans

1 (6-ounce) package semisweet chocolate pieces

1 cup pecan halves or chopped nuts

Combine caramels and 1/3 cup evaporated milk in top of double boiler. Melt over simmering water, stirring frequently. Keep in melted form.

Cream butter in large bowl until light and smooth. Beat in cake mix and remaining 1/3 cup evaporated milk. Stir in chopped pecans and chocolate pieces. Turn into greased 13x9-inch baking pan. Bake at 350 degrees 35 to 45 minutes or until cake tests done. Cool slightly.

Top with pecan halves and drizzle over caramel mixture. Or spread with caramel mixture and top with halved or chopped nuts. Makes about 15 servings.

CHOCOLATE MINT BROWNIES

3 (1-ounce) squares unsweetened chocolate

Butter or margarine

3 eggs

1 1/2 cups granulated sugar

3/4 cup flour

Dash salt

3/4 cup chopped pistachios

2 1/4 cups powdered sugar

3 tablespoons milk

1 1/4 teaspoons peppermint extract

5 drops green food color

1/2 cup semisweet chocolate pieces

Melt unsweetened chocolate and 3/4 cup butter in top of double boiler or in heavy saucepan over very low heat. Beat eggs and granulated sugar until light. Stir in flour, salt and pistachios. Add to chocolate mixture. Pour into greased 13x9-inch baking pan and bake at 350 degrees 20 to 25 minutes. Cool.

Cream 1/4 cup butter until light. Beat in powdered sugar, milk, peppermint extract and green food color. Spread over cooled brownies until firm, about 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Melt chocolate pieces with 3 tablespoons butter. Spread or swirl over green topping. Cut into small bars. Makes about 3 dozen.

CLASSIC AMERICAN BROWNIES

1/2 cup butter or margarine

2 (1-ounce) squares unsweetened chocolate

1 cup sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla

2 eggs

1/2 to 3/4 cup sifted flour

1/2 cup chopped nuts

Chocolate Glaze, optional

Combine butter and chocolate in heavy saucepan and heat over very low heat. Stir occasionally until smooth and melted. Cool about 3 minutes. Stir in sugar and vanilla. Beat in eggs, 1 at a time, stirring until smooth. Mix in flour, then nuts.

Turn into buttered 8-inch square baking pan and smooth top. Bake at 350 degrees 20 to 25 minutes or until wood pick inserted in center of cake barely comes out clean but not dry. Do not overbake. Cool. Makes 16 squares or 24 bars.

Note: Using less flour makes a fudgier brownie. Brownies may be glazed or frosted and sprinkled with chopped nuts or garnished with confections as desired.

Chocolate Glaze

1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk

1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

2 tablespoons butter

1 teaspoon vanilla

Stir together condensed milk and cocoa powder in heavy saucepan. Place over low heat and stir until smooth and thick. Remove from heat and stir in butter and vanilla. Use to glaze brownies baked in 2 (8- or 9-inch) square baking pans or 1 (13x9-inch) or jellyroll pan.

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