American Sampler: We’re Talking Trendy

As Melrose marches onward and upward, its restaurants keep spreading to the east. The latest trend-setter on the avenue is at 5722, somewhat east of Vine although its spirit is clearly closer to La Brea. American Sampler (213) 461-5775) is a seriously trendy place: its textured orange walls, spatter-painted chairs and giant photos by Andy Warhol give it a look that falls somewhere between a cave and a cafe.

The menu is pretty trendy, too. For starters there are cheese-topped blue corn tortillas with mesquite-grilled onions, tasty little fajitas and a delicious carpaccio made of slightly seared beef. There is an excellent Caesar salad and some fried chicken that would be wonderful if only the bones were put back in. There is blackened salmon and thinly sliced venison.

This place hasn’t missed a trick, and the food is pretty good. It is also fairly expensive (entrees from $10 to $20). But bargain-seekers should turn the menu over to find complete dinners, including soup or salad and coffee, priced from $7 to $9. These include dinners like your mother used to make--burnt meat loaf, beef stew, even a plate of pan-fried hot dogs. No dessert unless you eat everything on your plate--but if you don’t, you won’t be missing much.