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A Vine Romance

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<i> Betsy Balsley is food editor of The Times. </i>

Backyard gardeners with a plot full of tomato plants are the lucky ones this time of year. When picked at the peak of perfection, a freshly harvested crimson tomato has an almost decadently delicious taste. The commercial fruit (although considered a vegetable, the tomato is botanically a fruit) rarely achieve the still-warm-from-the-sun flavor of home-grown specimens. But for those who must rely on produce stands or supermarkets, the midsummer period means better quality in the marketplace as

well. It also means greater variety. Tiny, yellow egg tomatoes. Cherry tomatoes. Giant beefsteaks. Even the Romas and other Italian plum tomatoes are at their best. Which means that whether you are growing your own or buying them, this is a fine time not only to feature fresh

tomatoes on your menus but also to do some home canning. That way, you’ll be able to enjoy the sweetly tart taste of locally grown tomatoes

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at the peak of their flavor--any time of year.

PIZZA SAUCE 4 quarts chopped tomatoes2 large onions, minced1 sweet red pepper, minced1 small hot chile, seeded and minced2 cloves garlic, minced1 tablespoon minced fresh oregano leaves2 tablespoons minced fresh basil leavesSalt Wash, scald, skin, core, chop and measure tomatoes. Combine tomatoes, onions, red peppers, chile, garlic, oregano and basil in large kettle. Bring to boil, stirring frequently to prevent burning. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until thick. Season to taste with salt. Pour hot sauce into hot jars, leaving about 1/4-inch head space. Seal jars and process pints 30 minutes or quarts 45 minutes in boiling water bath. Makes 3 to 4 pints.

TOMATO CHUTNEY 3-1/2 cups chopped, peeled tomatoes3 cups chopped, peeled pears3 cups chopped, peeled apples1 cup chopped green pepper1/2 cup chopped onion1-1/2 teaspoons salt1 cup raisins, chopped1 teaspoon dry mustard1/2 cup vinegar3/4 cup mild-flavored honey Combine tomatoes, pears, apples, green pepper, onion, salt, raisins, dry mustard and vinegar in saucepan. Bring to full rolling boil, stirring frequently. Reduce heat and simmer 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add honey and mix well. Simmer 30 minutes longer or until thickened. Pour into hot sterilized 1/2-pint jars. Seal. Process 10 minutes in boiling water bath. Makes about 4 jars.

HOMEMADE CHILI SAUCE 15 pounds fully ripe tomatoes12 large onions9 green peppers1/2 cup salt3 cups brown sugar, packed2 teaspoons ground cloves2 teaspoons ground cinnamon2 teaspoons ground ginger2 teaspoons ground allspice1-1/2 cups cider vinegar3 or 4 small fresh chiles, seeded and finely chopped Peel and mash tomatoes. Mince onions and green peppers. In large heavy kettle combine tomatoes, onions, green peppers, salt, brown sugar, cloves, cinnamon, ginger, allspice, vinegar and chiles. Bring to a boil, stirring frequently. Uncover, reduce heat and simmer gently until thick, about 3 hours. Stir to prevent sticking. Ladle into clean hot jars, leaving 1/2-inch head space, and seal immediately. Process 15 minutes in boiling water bath. Makes about 6 quarts.

SPICED TOMATO AND PINEAPPLE 1-3/4 pounds tomatoes, peeled and chopped5-1/2 cups sugar1 1-3/4-ounce box powdered fruit pectin1 20-ounce can crushed pineapple2 tablespoons vinegar2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon1/2 teaspoon ground allspice1/2 teaspoon ground cloves Bring tomatoes to a boil, stirring frequently. Reduce heat and simmer 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat. Measure 2 cups into a large saucepan.

Measure sugar and set aside. Add fruit pectin, pineapple, vinegar, Worcestershire, cinnamon, allspice and cloves to tomatoes in saucepan and thoroughly mix. Place over high heat and stir until mixture comes to a hard boil. Add sugar. Bring to rolling boil and boil hard 1 minute, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and skim off foam with metal spoon. Stir and skim 5 minutes to cool slightly and prevent fruit from floating. Ladle quickly into sterilized glasses. Cover at once with 1/8-inch hot paraffin. Makes about 8 6- to 8-ounce glasses.

PRODUCED BY ROBIN TUCKER

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