GINGER : Botanically, it’s called a rhizome. This versatile crop can be dried, crystallized or preserved in a variety of ways for use in the kitchen.

The hot, sweet taste of a Chinese stir-fry or Indian curry . . . the spiciness of holiday cookies shaped like men . . . the flavor of a carbonated beverage long-used for soothing upset stomachs . . . all can be attributed to varied forms from the same source, ginger.

Botanically speaking, ginger is a rhizome that grows at, or just under, the surface of the soil. The rhizome sprouts green foliage upward, to about three feet above the ground, while producing roots from its undersurface. A hand of fresh ginger, the term used for one rhizome, is acknowledged by Tom Stobart in his book “Herbs, Spices and Flavorings” (Overlook Press: 1982) as looking “rather like a swollen hand with flat deformed fingers.” This odd-looking edible root-like food is used fresh, but may also be dried, crystallized or preserved in a variety of ways.

Nobody knows for certain, but experts believe the ginger plant was a native of Southeast Asia. People in that area learned planting pieces of rhizome from wild plants enabled them to grow new ginger plants. Since these rhizome “seeds” traveled well, cultivation spread from Asia, China and India to tropical climates around the world.

During this same period of time, dried ginger also traveled westward via the ancient trade routes. Records show early Greeks and Romans were avid consumers of this spice. During the Middle Ages, Europeans used ginger both as a flavoring for baked goods and medicinal purposes. Traditional gingerbread recipes crossed the Atlantic to this country with English colonists, and even today, tourists to Colonial Williamsburg, Va., may enjoy gingerbread men from the bakery’s original ovens using the 18th-Century recipe.

Chinese and Japanese immigrating to this country introduced fresh ginger to the West Coast. Long before they were available in other parts of this country, hands of ginger were a common item in Southern California supermarket produce sections.

Today ginger continues to be produced in Southeast Asia, China, India, West Africa, Central and South America and Australia. The only area of the United States with the moist, tropical climate necessary to grow the plants commercially is the east side of the island of Hawaii.

In Hawaii the crop is planted in February and March and takes nine to 10 months to mature. Soil is piled around the growing plants (a technique called “hilling”). Since growing ginger is very labor-intensive, plots are small, averaging one to 1 1/2 acres. The largest Hawaiian operations cover five acres. When ready to harvest, the above-ground foliage turns yellow and brown and is either cut or drops off. Although some of the larger Hawaiian growers use mechanical equipment to lift the plants out of the ground, most still tackle the job with hands and a shovel. Separating the roots and removing the soil must be done by hand.

The newly harvested hands of ginger are transported in baskets to the washing and packing shed. Here, again, except for a few large growers, the work is done by hand using water from high-pressure hoses. Cleaned ginger is placed on wooden racks with wire-mesh bottoms and air dried seven to 10 days before packing and shipping. Hawaii will ship all of this year’s 8.1 million pounds of ginger in this fresh state, much of it to the mainland between now and summer.

FRESH GINGER

Fresh ginger root stores well for a couple of weeks if tightly wrapped and refrigerated. For longer storage, wrap the ginger airtight in foil and freeze. Frozen ginger grates and slices even more easily than fresh; however, if allowed to thaw, ginger should be used as soon as possible because quality and freshness are lost if it is refrozen. A third alternative is to peel ginger and immerse it in a jar of dry Sherry. The ginger will retain its shape and flavor for several months, but won’t absorb the Sherry taste. Reuse the Sherry (which does become flavored by the ginger) for ginger storage or in recipes that are enhanced by the flavor.

To use fresh ginger, peel the skin with a vegetable peeler or sharp knife. Then slice, dice, mince, grate or shred as directed in the recipe. The Japanese oroshigane , a grater especially for ginger, can be purchased in many Oriental markets. A 2x1-inch piece of ginger yields about three tablespoons grated ginger (lightly packed) or a quarter-cup minced ginger.

DRIED GINGER

Only ginger from dried rhizomes is considered a spice. In “Ginger East to West” (Aris Books: 1984, $9.95), Bruce Cost makes the following observation regarding dried ginger: “Curiously, many food authorities who insist on grinding their own pepper and grating their own nutmeg ignore this requirement for ginger. Yet its fragrance deteriorates at least as rapidly as other spices.”

Dried ginger can be found in markets specializing in Indian foods. According to Tom Stobart, the hands that have been parboiled, skinned and bleached white with a fine powdering of lime preservative on the outside are reputed to be the best quality. He recommends bruising the dried ginger by hitting it with a rolling pin or hammer to open the fibers, then grinding in a coffee bean-style grinder.

The Times’ Test Kitchen found freshly ground dried ginger highly aromatic and flavorful. After storing in a zipper-style plastic lock bag for a few weeks, a great deal of both qualities were lost. However, the whole pieces of dried ginger retained quality well until bruised and ground.

For those who opt to purchase the more easily obtainable commercially ground ginger, be aware that its strength will wane over a period of months. Date the bottle after purchase and store tightly closed in a cool, dry place.

GINGER IN OTHER FORMS

A wide variety of preserved ginger products are also available, especially in markets catering to Asian clientele. Crystallized ginger has been cooked in sugar syrup, then coated with granulated sugar. Whole pieces of ginger root or slices, sometimes dyed red, are bottled in sugar syrup or pickled with vinegar, spices and other ingredients.

Varying types of pickled ginger, sometimes in combination with other ingredients, are also available in the canned and refrigerated sections.

These different forms of ginger should not be used interchangeably in recipes. Each is distinctive in flavor and texture.

GINGER DRESSING

1/4 cup sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon grated ginger root

1 tablespoon honey

1/4 cup Sherry vinegar

1 teaspoon paprika

3/4 cup oil

2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds

Combine sugar, salt, mustard, ginger, honey, vinegar and paprika in blender or food processor. Blend well. With motor running, add oil in thin stream. Process until thick and creamy. Stir in sesame seeds. Makes about 1 cup.

Note: Serve with vegetable or fruit salads.

GINGERED PORK ROAST

Ginger root

1 (4-to 5-pound) boneless pork loin roast

Salt, pepper

1 1/2 cups orange juice

1 (3-ounce) package orange gelatin

1 tablespoon grated orange peel

1 cup molasses

3/4 teaspoon salt

Peel ginger root and cut off 3 to 4 slices. Stack slices and cut into slivers. With tip of sharp knife, make incisions about 2 inches apart over entire surface of roast. Insert ginger sliver into each.

Season roast with salt and pepper to taste. Place on rack in open roasting pan and insert meat thermometer. Roast, uncovered, at 325 degrees 40 to 45 minutes per pound or to internal temperature of 160 degrees.

Bring orange juice to boil in saucepan. Stir in gelatin, orange peel, molasses, salt and 1 tablespoon grated ginger root. About 1 hour before end of roasting, brush pork with 1/2 cup sauce.

Remove roast from oven and allow to stand 20 minutes before carving. Add pan drippings to sauce, reheat, strain and serve with meat. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

GINGER SPARKLER

4 ounces ginger root, about

2 cups water

1 1/2 cups sugar

Ice cubes

Club soda

Peel and finely chop enough ginger root to measure about 3/4 cup. Combine with water in non-aluminum saucepan and bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer 5 minutes. Remove from heat, cover pan with cheesecloth and allow to stand at room temperature 12 to 24 hours.

Strain liquid through sieve lined with two layers cheesecloth, squeezing pulp in cloth to extract all juice. Return liquid to saucepan. Add sugar and bring to boil, stirring, over moderate heat. Boil gently 5 minutes, skimming off foam.

Cool, then strain into bottle and refrigerate. Combine 1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons syrup with ice cubes and 6 ounces club soda for each serving. Makes about 2 cups syrup, 18 to 24 servings.

Note: Recipe is from “Better Than Store-Bought” by Helen Witty and Elizabeth Schneider Colchie (Harper & Row: 1979).

GINGER BANANA BREAD

Ginger root

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon grated lemon peel

1 cup mashed banana

1/4 cup milk

1/2 cup flaked coconut

2 1/4 cups sifted flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup shortening

3/4 cup sugar

2 eggs

Ginger-Sugar

Ginger-Butter

Peel and finely grate ginger to measure 1 1/2 tablespoons. Combine with lemon juice and peel, banana, milk and coconut. Resift flour with baking powder, baking soda and salt.

Cream shortening and sugar until blended. Add eggs and beat until fluffy. Add sifted dry ingredients alternately with ginger mixture, beating to smooth, thick batter.

Turn batter into greased 9x5-inch loaf pan. Let stand while preparing Ginger-Sugar. Sprinkle Ginger-Sugar over top of batter.

Bake on first rack below oven center at 350 degrees 50 to 55 minutes or until wood pick inserted near center of loaf comes out clean. Remove from oven, let stand in pan 5 minutes, then turn out onto wire rack to cool.

Serve plain or with Ginger-Butter. Makes 1 loaf.

Note: 1/2 cup finely chopped nuts may be substituted for coconut.

Ginger-Sugar

2 tablespoons sugar

2 teaspoons finely grated ginger root

Toss sugar and ginger together with fork. Makes about 3 tablespoons.

Ginger-Butter

1/2 cup softened butter

1 teaspoon grated ginger root

Beat together butter and ginger. Makes about 1/2 cup.

APPLE UPSIDE-DOWN

GINGERBREAD

1/3 cup butter or margarine

3/4 cup light brown sugar, packed

1 teaspoon minced ginger root

2 large baking apples

3 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/2 cup shortening

1 egg

1 cup molasses

1/2 cup milk

2 1/4 cups flour

1/2 cup hot water

Whipped cream

Chopped crystallized ginger

Melt butter in 9-inch heavy, oven-proof skillet over low heat. Remove from heat and sprinkle brown sugar and minced ginger root evenly over bottom of pan. Peel, core and cut apples crosswise into 1/2-inch slices. Arrange in bottom of skillet with edges overlapping.

Combine granulated sugar, baking soda, salt, ground ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg and shortening, mixing well. Beat in egg. Stir in molasses. Add milk alternately with flour. Beat in hot water.

Spoon batter over apples and bake at 325 degrees 50 to 55 minutes or until wood pick inserted in center comes out clean. Cool in pan 10 minutes, then invert onto serving platter, but do not remove pan for 5 minutes. Garnish with whipped cream and crystallized ginger. Makes about 16 servings.

GINGER ICE CREAM

4 eggs

4 cups half and half

1/2 cup honey

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon vanilla

1 (6-ounce) jar preserved ginger in syrup

2 cups whipping cream

Combine eggs, half and half, honey, salt and vanilla and beat lightly. Place 1 cup mixture in food processor or blender with ginger and syrup. Process until ginger is in small chunks.

Add processed mixture to egg mixture. Add whipping cream, stirring to combine. Chill thoroughly.

Churn freeze according to manufacturer’s directions. Makes 2 quarts.

Note: Recipe is from “Ginger East To West” by Bruce Cost (Aris Books: 1984, $9.95).

SPICY GINGERBREAD WITH LEMON SAUCE

2 1/2 cups sifted flour

1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda

1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground ginger

3/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup shortening

1/2 cup sugar

1 egg

1 cup molasses

1 cup hot water

Lemon Sauce

Sift together flour, baking soda, cloves, cinnamon, ginger and salt. Cream shortening and sugar, then add egg and beat until light and fluffy, about 4 minutes with electric mixer. Combine molasses and hot water.

Alternately add dry ingredients and molasses to creamed mixture, beating at low speed until smooth. Turn into greased, wax paper-lined 9-inch square baking pan and bake at 350 degrees 45 minutes or until wood pick inserted near center comes out clean. Serve warm with Lemon Sauce. Makes 9 servings.

Lemon Sauce

1/2 cup sugar

2 tablespoons cornstarch

Dash salt

1 cup boiling water

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

3 tablespoons lemon juice

1 teaspoon grated lemon peel

Yellow food color, optional

Combine sugar, cornstarch and salt in saucepan. Gradually stir in water and cook, stirring, until sauce is thickened.

Add butter, lemon juice and peel and 2 to 3 drops yellow food color. Makes 1 1/2 cups.