A TASTE OF THAI

There are more than 200 Thai restaurants in Los Angeles. We haven’t gotten to all of them--yet-- but these are the ones most recently reviewed in The Times. ANAJAK THAI, CUISINE OF THAILAND (14704 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks (818) 501-4201). Don’t go to this family owned restaurant expecting elaborate decor. Bright blue walls are adorned by just a few pieces of art and some framed reviews. Thirteen tables are tucked into the long, narrow room. Do go to Anajak for food, which is consistently good. Among the 55 items available on the menu is the outstanding yum yai salad. Another favorite is Anajak Thai chicken, sauteed in brown sauce and roasted chiles. Lunch, Mon.-Fri.; dinner, Tue.-Sun. MC, AE, V. Street parking. Dinner for two: $10-$24.

BANGKOK 3 (101 Palm Ave., Balboa Peninsula (714) 673-6521). A downright fancy Thai restaurant, Bangkok 3 has recently undergone improvement with the addition of a new room. Its walls are covered with bizarre New Wave murals of Thai temple dancers floating among saxophones and radios. As for the menu, Bangkok 3 is still serving the same high-style Thai food that earned it a reputation. Dishes are always bright and pretty, adorned with curls of green onion, cherry tomatoes carved into rosettes and artful scatterings of herbs. The food itself is rich and meaty. Wing kai, stuffed chicken wings, are crammed so full of meat that they are larger than drumsticks. For a diversion, skip the mee krob and try the “vegetarian appetizer,” taro todd . It is virtually the same deep-fried bird’s nest we know as a potato basket, except that it’s crispier. Dinner nightly; Sun. brunch. Major credit cards. Dinner for two: $25-$35.

HOUSE OF KITTI (3914 West 3rd St., Los Angeles, (213) 387-6004). The House of Kitti isn’t too concerned with felines, but it does devote considerable time to seasoning, and knows very well the meaning of the word spicy . The dipping sauce for salted beef ( neau tod dad deow ) was almost hot beyond endurance. But the strips of chewy meat, which had been marinated, then roasted, then fried, has enough flavor without it. The House of Kitti also serves milder dishes, including the satay , which is lightly seasoned with curry powder. Fried minced pork on toast ( ka-nohm pahng nah moo ) is also easy on tender mouths. Kitti’s exterior is plain, but the inside is quite attractive thanks to cool blue walls and an abundance of artificial greenery. Lunch and dinner daily. MC, V. Reservations accepted. Dinner for two: $10-$20.

RAMA GARDEN (8828 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, (213) 855-1214). Situated inconspicuously across the street from Spago, Rama Garden is plenty trendy on its own. The menu runs to the reliable dishes served by most Thai restaurants. Nothing is extremely hot. And there are Americanisms such as an abundance of green peas in certain dishes. They are even in stuffed chicken wings. The Thai sticks are deep fried crunchy lollipops of shrimp coated with ground pork, served with a syrupy dip. And, of course, Rama Garden has mee krob-- and it is very good, retains its crispness if not eaten promptly and is bright enough in color to match the orange slices that garnish the plate. Lunch, Mon.-Fri.; dinner nightly. Reservations accepted. MC, V. Street parking only. Dinner for two: $15-$20.

TALESAI (9043 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, (213) 275-9724). If you are looking for an elegant Thai restaurant, Talesai is the place to go. The food here is exceptional, reflecting the gentle quality of the restaurant’s ambiance. To begin your meal, try a unique dish called hor mok . Tender pieces of shrimp and squid bathed in an irresistible sauce of lemon grass, Thai basil, coconut and chile are hidden beneath little conical cups. Another dish not to be missed is the “Talesai special,” which arrives on two plates. The first holds a tasty combination of minced pork, shrimp, peanuts and coconut. On the other are irregular bits of crispy rice for scooping. Lunch, Mon.-Fri.; dinner, Mon.-Sat. Beer and wine. Valet parking. Major credit cards. Dinner for two: $20-$50.

TOMMY TANG’S (7473 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, (213) 651-1810). One of the coolest places to eat hot food, Tang’s was one of the first new-wave Thai restaurants in town when it opened in 1982. Since then, the food has steadily increased in quality and the clientele has increased in chic. The restaurant is designed on multi-levels, with a relaxed sushi bar in front, a more traditional dining room and an outside patio area. Tang’s prides itself on its crispy duck with ginger and plum sauce, Japanese sea scallops and its own version of Thai pasta--a cold spinach noodle with chicken topped with a sweet and spicy black bean sauce. Lunch, Mon.-Sat.; dinner nightly. Beer and wine. Major credit cards. Valet parking. Reservations recommended. Dinner for two: about $35.