COOKING & ENTERTAINING WITH STYLE : A WINNING WARMTH

Spicy food is in vogue, and our trendiest restaurants are heating up as chefs experiment with bold seasonings. Here we present unusual dishes from India, Indonesia and Mexico

Some like it hot. But some like it even hotter. Spicy food is in vogue--and not only at the neighborhood Thai cafe or the corner taco stand. The trendiest restaurants are heating up as chefs experiment with bold seasonings borrowed from exotic cuisines. Southern California is a logical site for such innovation. We have drawn many inhabitants from diverse parts of the world where exciting flavors are the rule. Our markets have responded by stocking assertive seasonings that once were difficult to obtain.

The following recipes represent three spicy cuisines: Mexican, Sindhi and Sumatran. Mexican food is, of course, native to Southern California, but Sindhi and Sumatran dishes may be unfamiliar. Sind province was formerly part of northern India and is now in Pakistan. Sindhi cooking tends toward lighter dishes such as Mira Advani’s Fish in Spicy Green Masala and Spicy Eggplant Saute. Advani, a Sindhi who lives in Beverly Hills, was born in Karachi and grew up in Bombay (now home to many Sindhis) and Delhi.

Advani nicknames the green masala “Indian pesto” and suggests its use with cooked chicken or shrimp as well as with fish. She has altered the Sindhi version in only one way--by adding watercress. A distinctive ingredient is methi (fenugreek) leaves, which are sold dried in Indian shops or can be sprouted fresh from seeds. Serrano chiles, cayenne, cumin and the Indian spice blend called garam masala give heady flavor to Advani’s eggplant dish, which is unchanged from the Sindhi original.

Some of the hottest food in Indonesia comes from the island of Sumatra and specifically from the town of Padang. The two Sumatran dishes shown at right are from Agung Indonesian restaurant in Los Angeles, which specializes in Sumatran cooking. Padang-style Ayam Panggang (grilled chicken) is lavishly seasoned with ground fresh red chiles, as is Sayur Lodeh , a soupy vegetable dish that is made with coconut milk. Both recipes require lemon grass and kaffir lime leaves, which add aromatic flavor without citrus tang. Many Oriental markets regularly stock lemon grass and occasionally have fresh lime leaves. If necessary, dried kaffir lime leaves can be substituted.

Beans are common to Mexican restaurants, but La Parrilla’s zesty charro beans are out of the ordinary. Fiery dried arbol chiles generate plenty of heat, and chorizo adds more spiciness. Bowls of these beans accompany most dishes served at the three La Parrilla restaurants, located in Boyle Heights, Northridge and Tarzana. Not one but three types of chile--California, ancho and chipotle --go into the marinade for La Parrilla’s grilled pork adobo . The chiles are blended with other spices including cinnamon, cloves and cumin. The most unusual component is achiote paste, which is imported from Yucatan. Annatto seeds, called achiote in Mexico, are the key ingredient in the paste and impart a glowing orange-red color. Mexican chocolate adds a darker tone. For maximum flavor, the meat should be marinated for at least a day before grilling. La Parrilla uses the marinade only with pork, but it’s also good with beefsteaks, chicken and fish.

SPICY EGGPLANT SAUTE

SERVES 8

1 tablespoon garam masala

1 tablespoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon turmeric

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

4 medium Japanese eggplant

Oil, about 1/2 cup

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 medium onion, sliced

1/2 lemon

2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro

2 tablespoons finely chopped onion

2 serrano chiles, finely chopped

In a small bowl, mix garam masala , ground cumin, salt, turmeric and cayenne. Wash eggplants. Cut off stems and cut each in half lengthwise. Make crisscross slashes on cut surfaces. Sprinkle enough spice mixture on eggplants to penetrate slashes. It is not necessary to use all the spice mixture.

Heat cup oil in large skillet. Add cumin seeds and fry until browned. Add onion and cook until golden brown. Remove onion. Place eggplant in single layer in skillet spice-side up. Cook 5 to 7 minutes on each side until browned evenly and tender. Add more oil as needed. Return onion to pan when turning eggplant. Cook in two batches if necessary. Remove to serving dish. Squeeze lemon half over eggplants. Garnish with mixture of chopped cilantro, onion and chiles. Serve as side dish with meat or fowl.

FISH IN SPICY GREEN MASALA

SERVES 4

1 pound sea bass fillet

Salt

1/2 lemon

6 tablespoons oil

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 bunch green onions, including tops, chopped

1 bunch watercress, chopped

1/2 bunch cilantro, chopped

bunch mint, chopped

4 serrano chiles, chopped

8 large cloves garlic, chopped

1 tablespoon dried methi leaves, optional

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1/2 cup water

Cut fish into 4 equal strips. Wash and pat dry. Sprinkle with salt and juice of 1/2 lemon. Set aside. Heat oil in large skillet. Add cumin seeds and fry until browned. Add green onions, watercress, cilantro, mint, chiles and garlic. Stir for a few minutes. Add methi leaves, cayenne and season to taste with salt. Cook, uncovered, about 10 minutes, until greens are tender. Transfer masala to blender. Add lemon juice and water and puree. Return pureed masala to skillet. Add fish and coat thoroughly with masala . Cover and simmer on low heat 10 minutes. Serve with steamed basmati rice.

SAYUR LODEH

(Vegetables in Coconut Milk)

SERVES 6 TO 8

1/2 pound green beans

1/2 medium cabbage, about 1 pound

3 fresh red chiles

1 small stalk lemon grass

1 1/2 cups water

1 cup coconut milk

1 kaffir lime leaf

1 1/2 teaspoons sugar

1/2 teaspoon turmeric

teaspoon salt, or to taste

Cut green beans diagonally into pieces 3/4 to 1 inch long. Cut cabbage half in two, then cut crosswise in 1-inch wide slices. Remove stems of chiles but retain seeds. Puree in blender with a small amount of water to facilitate blending. Pound lemon grass to release flavor but leave whole. In large saucepan, combine water, coconut milk, lemon grass, lime leaf, sugar, turmeric and salt. Bring to a boil. Add green beans, reduce heat and simmer, covered, until half cooked, about 5 minutes. Add cabbage and cook, covered, until tender, about 10 minutes. Remove lime leaf and lemon grass. Serve vegetables in bowls with their broth.

Note: Reduce number of chiles for milder flavor.

AYAM PANGGANG

(Grilled Chicken)

SERVES 4

1 stalk lemon grass

7 fresh red chiles

1 quart coconut milk, preferably made from a fresh coconut

2 kaffir lime leaves

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

1/2 teaspoon turmeric

1 3 to 3 1/2-pound chicken, quartered

Pound lemon grass until bruised, to release flavor. Remove stems of chiles but retain seeds. Puree chiles in blender, adding just enough water to facilitate blending. Combine coconut milk, lemon grass, chiles, lime leaves, sugar, salt and turmeric in large saucepan. Add chicken. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer, covered, until chicken is tender but still firm, about 30 minutes. Drain chicken. Continue cooking sauce, uncovered, to reduce it slightly.

Meanwhile, grill chicken just until browned on each side, about 15 minutes. Remove lemon grass and lime leaves from sauce. Serve chicken in large bowls with some of the sauce spooned over.

Note: For milder flavor, reduce number of chiles to 4.

CHARRO BEANS

SERVES 10 TO 12

1 pound dried pinto beans

5 quarts water

1 small head garlic

yellow onion

1 tablespoon salt

cup oil

pound thinly sliced cooked ham, chopped

3 ounces pork chorizo, about cup

3 strips bacon, chopped

cup minced yellow onion

4 Roma tomatoes, chopped

8 dried arbol chiles

cup oil

2 teaspoons chicken bouillon granules

2 green onions, minced

bunch cilantro, chopped

Black pepper

Wash beans thoroughly. Place in Dutch oven. Add water, whole head garlic and the onion quarter (cut a few slits in the onion to release flavor). Bring to a boil, reduce heat and boil gently 1 1/2 hours, until tender. Add salt as beans cook. Skim foam from top.

Heat oil in skillet. Add ham, chorizo, bacon, minced yellow onion, tomatoes and chiles. Saute until chorizo and bacon are cooked. Add to beans and boil to desired degree of thickness. There should be plenty of broth. Add chicken bouillon granules, cover and boil 5 minutes. Add green onions and cilantro and boil, covered, 5 minutes longer. Season with pepper to taste. Serve beans in bowls with their broth.

ADOBO

SERVES 10 TO 12

5 dried ancho chiles

5 dried California chiles

2 quarts water

1 quart chicken broth

1/2 cup white vinegar

3 canned chipotle chiles

1 3.5-ounce package Mexican achiote paste, broken up

yellow onion

2 cloves garlic

3 ounces Mexican chocolate, cut up

5 whole cloves

1 stick cinnamon

1 1/2 teaspoons oregano

1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 1/2 teaspoons black pepper

5 tablespoons salt

1 tablespoon chicken bouillon granules

4 to 5 pounds pork butt

Salt, pepper

Place ancho and California chiles in Dutch oven. Add water. Bring to a boil and boil until chiles are tender. Drain chiles. Discard seeds, if desired, and stems. Place half the chiles and half the broth in blender container or food processor. Add the vinegar, chipotle chiles, achiote paste, onion, garlic, chocolate, cloves, cinnamon, oregano, cumin, black pepper, salt and bouillon granules. Blend until pureed. Turn into large bowl. Add remaining chiles and broth to blender and blend until pureed. Add to mixture in bowl.

Trim pork butt. Cut into 10 to 12 steaks about -inch thick and 5 to 6 ounces each. Season steaks to taste with salt and pepper. Brush with marinade. (Extra marinade can be frozen). Marinate in refrigerator at least one day. Grill pork steaks until browned and crispy around the edges. Or broil about 25 minutes, until done. Makes 5 1/2 cups marinade.

FOOD STYLIST: KAREN GILLINGHAM