Some Old Italian Variety

Every once in a while I look up from a plate of pasta al pretentio-- the chic, trendy, hot, new noodle of the night--and think that what the world needs now is more red sauce. More checked tablecloths. More spaghetti with meatballs. At times like that I’m glad to know that there are places like Variety Grill, 949 S. Figueroa, Los Angeles, (213) 624-5533.

Most of the food is Italian; I liked the spicy calamari on a bed of linguine and the chicken Marsala. The best thing about the meatballs was their size, but I suspect that they’d make a mean meatball sandwich. And that Mississippi mud pie (well, they were out of cannoli) was a killer.

This is not the world’s greatest restaurant; the best thing on the menu might actually be the garlicky, slippery little rolls that are abundantly served in a basket. It’s a casual sort of spot where you can spend as much as $12.95 (on veal piccata or filet mignon), or as little as 95 cents (on a peanut butter and jelly sandwich). But whatever you order, it will be big and fresh and served by some of the nicest waitresses I’ve ever encountered.