Tomatillos a Mainstay of Mexican Food

The tomatillo, a native plant of Mexico, produces fruit that is indispensable in Mexican cookery, and it is easy to grow in Southern California. The fruit of the tomatillo plant resembles small green tomatoes, about the size of golf balls. The skin is covered with unusual paper-thin, parchment-like husks, which look like tiny Chinese lanterns.

While tomatillos resemble green tomatoes, the flavor and texture are different. The flavor is tart, and the flesh is seedier and much less juicy. In Mexico, and in Mexican restaurants here, the flesh of tomatillos is combined with various chiles and used in many versions of salsa verde.

Salsa Makings

The culture of tomatillo plants is quite similar to that of tomatoes, except that they are less affected by insects and disease. Three or four plants are enough to supply a family with ample salsa makings.

Transplants for tomatillos are not available in Southland nurseries, and seeds are not available in local seed racks. However, a few specialty mail-order seed companies do carry the seeds.

The simplest and most reliable way to grow tomatillos is by using seeds from the fruit. Tomatillos are becoming more readily available in supermarkets, and most specialty produce markets sell them. Purchase several tomatillos, remove the seeds and allow the seeds to dry for one week.

Plant the seeds one-quarter inch deep in pots for later transplanting. Place the pots in a warm, sunny window until germination occurs. Then remove pots to a sunny outdoor spot. Keep the soil in the pots moist. Transplant into the garden when the plants are about 4 inches tall.

Tomatillos require warmth and full sun. In a hot, sunny area of your garden, prepare the soil by deep spading. Work in generous quantities of compost or peat moss. Add a dressing of vegetable fertilizer, and water deeply.

Space the plants 18 inches apart. Tomatillos, like their tomato cousins, tend to sprawl. The vines don’t look like tomato vines, as the foliage is different and the stems are more woody. Use small stakes to control the vines.

Water Deeply

Water tomatillos deeply on a weekly basis and feed them again with a tomato fertilizer when the plants start to blossom.

About 85 days after transplanting, you will be able to make your first tomatillo harvest. They will be ready for harvest when they are fully rounded, the husks turn tan and the fruit inside is bright green. If too ripe, the fruit loses its bright green luster and assumes a yellowish or purplish hue. At this stage, the fruit is still edible, but it develops a sweet, bland flavor. Remove the husks before processing.

Tomatillos may be stored in a cool, well-ventilated area with their husks left on. They may also be stored in the refrigerator, but not in a plastic bag; they deteriorate rapidly in an airtight bag.

Mexican cookbooks offer various tomatillo sauces. Here is a recipe that my wife and I favor.

Tomatillo Sauce

1 medium onion

2 tablespoons oil

4 cups quartered tomatillos

2 mashed garlic cloves

1/2 cup diced Anaheim chile or

green chile sauce

Pinch of sugar

Salt

1 cup chicken broth

Saute onion in hot oil. Blend tomatillos and chiles with broth until fairly smooth. Add garlic, sugar and salt and mix with onion. Cook sauce until slightly thickened, 15 to 20 minutes.