N.Y. Audiences Applaud Bill Blass’ Fall Lineup
Is the world waiting for yet another cashmere coat with sable collar? It suddenly seemed that way Monday morning, when the audience packed into the Hotel Pierre ballroom erupted into strong applause for Bill Blass’ bathrobe-sashed violet cashmere number worn over T-shirt and trousers in different shades of the same color. That is the power of Blass at his best, which he is with his fall fashion collection.
Nancy Kissinger, Pat Buckley, Casey Ribicoff, Blaine and Ivana Trump, Anne Bass, Pat Mosbacher and Mildred Hillson were among the socially prominent women who saw the show and afterward said they loved it.
“The pants were wonderful and pants are so important for my way of life,” said Ivana Trump, who climbs in and out of her private helicopter daily, and who wore a navy Chanel pants suit to the show.
Blass’ daytime pants were simply tailored with straight legs and lean jackets that allow for plenty of movement. A much applauded black wool suit had a pearl gray suede vest and a long Edwardian jacket. For evening, Blass’ pants in black lace, navy chiffon or dark plaid taffeta were teamed with lightweight cashmere or jersey sweaters and topped with wool jackets so simple that they could also be worn with skirts and pants for daytime.
Skirt lengths on dresses and suits for day ranged from just above the knee to mid-calf, with the color emphasis on muted earth and spice tones in checks and stripes, often combined in a single outfit. A handsome mid-calf length dress featured a long overblouse, slim skirt and stole all in shades of gray jersey.
Much the same crowd showed up at Carolyne Roehm’s show late Monday, with the addition of a few princesses, duchesses and Wall Street wives (Roehm is married to arbitrage king Henry Kravis). The look here was a bit more glittery than at Blass, with crimson wool coats and jackets topping sleek gray flannel jump suits or high-waisted gray pants with wide legs. Amethyst, midnight blue, purple and spruce green were the highlight colors for day and evening. Skirts were at the knee for afternoon.
Roehm’s evening wear is toned down this season, in homage to the new conservative mood that’s sweeping Seventh Avenue. But it still packs a visual punch. One outfit consisted of an embroidered purple mohair jacket over sequined indigo halter top and violet silk chiffon pajama pants.
Another embroidered mohair jacket in spruce green, topped a matching satin jump suit with flowing pants and halter top. A navy tweed evening suit is brightened with glittery threads and its off-the-shoulder neckline is framed with navy mink.
The rich and famous did not show up at designer Marc Jacobs’ fall show. That’s because Jacobs, 25, is just beginning his ascent in the fashion world, where he’s known as a designer with lots of talent and so far, very little luck. A fire destroyed his workroom last season, causing him to lose his entire spring line. But he’s back for fall with peppy sportswear that looks just right for Southern California life.
Swaggery blazers in violet, white or black-and-white check topped pleated pants in the same fabrics. Many of the jackets have appliques of black-and-white checked fabric and some of his stretch fabric minidresses are the shortest and tightest in town. Jacobs’ evening pants suit is dressed up with a halter blouse that is red draped satin in front and matching sheer net in back.
