The following are summaries of recent Times...

The following are summaries of recent Times restaurant reviews.

Antonello, 3800 S. Plaza Drive, in the South Coast Plaza Village, Santa Ana. (714) 751-7153 . Open Mondays through Thursdays 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., 6 to 10 p.m.; Fridays 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., 6 to 11 p.m.; Saturdays, 6 to 11 p.m.

Expect to be treated with courtly attention at this charming restaurant, where the main dining room is a miniature of a street scene in Bistagna, Italy. But you will probably be disappointed by what you eat. Appetizers from a lavish antipasto bar suffer from a surfeit of oil, albeit the extra virgin type, and homemade pastas are sometimes tired and flavorless. Owner Antonio Cagnolo has a wonderfully attentive staff and spares no expense for raw materials; veal chops are thick and tender, beef is superbly marbled. One would think that this restaurant would be superb, with so many pluses. But at present, it’s the classic underachiever.

Bangkok IV, 3333 Bear St., Costa Mesa. (714) 540-7661 . Open daily 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. (weekends until 10).

Now they have really done it. They have opened an upscale Thai restaurant in a shopping mall--South Coast Plaza’s Crystal Court. What next? Bangkok IV is operated by veteran Lucky Teachanarong, and his newest outing is a flat-out winner. Appetizers like taro todd , Balboa mussels and Thai toasts are terrific, and main dishes like paht Thai (flat noodles pan-fried with pork, shrimp, and bean sprouts) and pork with green beans in dry curry paste aren’t far behind. Food tends to be on the sweet side here, but the management will turn up the heat on request. Now you have been warned. There are even some excellent homemade desserts.

Eve ‘N Orleans, 1829 W. Katella Ave., Anaheim. (714) 776-4022. Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch, 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Tuesday-Sunday for dinner, 5-9 p.m. Closed Monday. Visa and MasterCard accepted.

Eve ‘n Orleans is simply smashing, a delight for Cajun and Creole specialties. Owner/chef Joyce Washington is from Lake Charles, La., and her menu abounds with regional specialties: spicy fried chicken, seafood gumbo, crawfish etoufee and sweet potato pie. One taste of her smothered pork chops, fried pork in a country style roux made from pepper, onion and secret spices, will make you beg for more. Red beans and rice are modestly sumptuous, and the homemade cole slaw is sweet and dreamy. A stop here is a must for anyone who thinks American regional cooking is just hype. Pure bliss, and cheap to boot.

The Greek Corner, 520 Main St., Huntington Beach. (714) 960-3212. Open Mondays through Saturdays, 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.; Sundays, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., 5:30 to 10:30 p.m.

The Greek Corner is an odd-looking restaurant, with barely a hint of Greek decor, but it’s full of Hellenic spirit and Mediterranean fire. Weekends, there is dancing on the dining room floor led by the proprietor, papa Loizides, and his wife Rodula, who doubles as chef. Don’t expect your food to come out with any regularity. All dinners begin with fresh bread and tzatziki, an addictive appetizer made from yogurt, garlic, cucumber, mint and olive oil. The spinach and cheese pie appetizers are the best in the area. Don’t miss the kota psiti, lemon marinated baked chicken, or pastitsio, a noodle casserole.

JW’s, in the Anaheim Marriott Hotel, 700 W. Convention Way, Anaheim . (714) 750-0900 . Open Mondays through Saturdays, 6 to 9 p.m.

JW’s is one of those staunchly old-school special occasion restaurants, but the food is somewhat innovative and of surprisingly high quality. Appetizers show a certain daring, like home-grown foie gras served on a potato galette in a Madeira sauce, or escargot ravioli with wild mushrooms. Main dishes show enthusiasm as well, and the sauces accompanying them are generally big hits. Roast boar comes drenched with a simple sauce of sage, juniper and honey, and has a robust spiciness. Venison comes in a sauce based on red wine vinegar. Prices are definitely on the high end, service attentive and manicured. It is fail-safe the way only a good hotel restaurant can be.

Parker’s Seafood Grill, 309 Palm St., Newport Beach. (714) 673-3741. Open daily, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. All major cards.

Parker’s Seafood Grill had its maiden voyage recently, and is already afloat on a steady course. It is a tried-and-true formula with an elegant twist; fresh fish, an ocean view and the added appeal of an open kitchen and mesquite. The eclectic menu features a wide variety of fresh seafoods, which change daily, and there is a chewy, yeasty house bread-stick to complement them. Desserts are sensational, all made on the premises, highlighted by pies, including a smooth, creamy key lime, and a wonderful Toll House.