Italy Tastes Defeat in Pasta War

Italy’s “pasta purity” law was overturned Thursday, opening the door to imports from other European countries and touching off warnings of an invasion of mushy macaroni.

The European Economic Community’s Court of Justice in Luxembourg ruled that Italy cannot ban imports under its 1967 law that required all pasta to be made with durum wheat.

Pasta made of durum wheat is more firm but also more expensive than pasta made from other kinds of wheat.

“In the coming weeks, Italians will have to say goodby to their beloved firm pasta,” reported the leftist-leaning newspaper La Repubblica.

“That flavorful and firm macaroni, the product of our able pasta makers, will be challenged, and maybe even replaced, by the gluey and insipid pasta from (West) Germany or Holland,” the newspaper said.

Italians consume an average of 55 pounds of pasta per year. It is always cooked al dente , or firm.

The case, dubbed “pasta wars” by the Italian press, was brought to the court by the West German pasta producer Drei Glocken. The firm was blocked in 1985 from importing pasta made with mixed wheat into Italy.