Reserved Applause : Rothschild-Mondavi’s Latest Opus One Debuts in Paris to Mixed Reviews

WITH unparalleled elan, Opus One 1985, the California red wine joint-venture of the late Baron Philippe de Rothschild of Bordeaux and Robert Mondavi of the Napa Valley, made its debut in France in mid-October. And the French showed their chauvinism.

In light of the not unknown French provincialism where wine is concerned, the Baroness Philippine de Rothschild was daring in deciding to stage the Opus One 1985 debut in France with a luncheon and dinner in the cellar of Chateau Mouton-Rothschild, a benefit Leonard Bernstein-Opus One London Symphony Orchestra concert in the Theatre des Champs-Elysees, and a gala post-concert black-tie dinner. It was a front-page news story for the Saturday morning Le Figaro. The story included the baroness’s name (she is the daughter of Baron Philippe) but made no mention of Mondavi, the wine’s American co-creator.

In Nicolas de Rabaudy’s story in Figaro Magazine, the tone was one of begrudging chauvinism. California, he wrote, does not yet produce wines of world-class stature.

He concluded that the limited production of a few hundred bottles of Opus One, available in only about 30 states, including California, is not a great threat to the French, especially at about 350 francs (about $60) per bottle.

It became apparent in my conversations with Tim Johnston, the genial Scot-Parisien operator of Willi’s Wine Bar, in Paris, that the French have never gotten over the defeat of French clarets and white burgundies in the Stephen Spurrier Paris tasting (by an all-French jury) in 1976. In that competition, California wines triumphed with first places; Time magazine called it “The Judgment of Paris.” When I asked Georges Lepre, the sommelier of the Ritz, whether Opus One would be on his wine list, he replied: “We have no California wines on our list.” And then, with a significant smile, added, “ Pas encore . . . not yet.”

In the English media, Opus One fared very well. Jane MacQuitty of the Times of London wrote, after the vertical tasting of the 1985, 1984, and 1982 at Mouton: “Wisely the best vintage, the glorious ’85 was served first.

Its deep purple-black colour, plus its minty scent and luscious black curranty palate is undoubtedly the finest Opus One vintage to date, with a perfect balance between oak and fruit. Next the 1984 vintage with its perfumed, sandalwood scent and deliciously drinkable rich palate; we finished with a 1982 Opus--a minty bouquet led onto a firm palate. Not, I think, in league with the other two.”

I agreed with her essentially but found that for current enjoyment the ’84 is at its peak; the 1985 has rare potentials that will be realized with a year or two of aging.

In the opinion of Mike and Tim Mondavi, Robert Mondavi’s sons, while Opus One 1985 is perhaps the finest of the vintages in release, the blockbuster is the 1987, yet to be released. “It’s a killer,” Mike told me. From which I gather that the finesse will leave no doubts, anywhere, about the world-class stature of this unique joint venture, California-French red table wine.