Nouvelle Ma Maison

“No,” said the waiter, “you can’t have a menu.” He looked a little sheepish and then added, “too many other people are looking at menus just now, and we don’t have enough to go around.”

It was just about the only thing that didn’t go smoothly during a dinner at the newly opened Ma Maison restaurant in the Ma Maison Sofitel, 8555 Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood, (213) 278-5444. It’s warm and pleasant in this pretty room that makes you feel as if you are sitting inside a great big urban greenhouse. With its widely spaced tables, its carpet and its thoughtful service, the restaurant has the air of the old Ma Maison--but one that has grown up and gotten dignity.

The menu itself (designed by David Hockney) finally arrived. Prices are fairly high (this is, after all, a hotel), and there were no ground-breaking dishes, but there was a fine duck salad, a good entrecote with pommes frites that tasted like true French bistro food, and sea bass topped with goat cheese. I haven’t been there during the daytime yet, but that dinner made me suspect that this would be a lovely place to lunch.