Buon Appetito

Leaning toward Italian? Market City Caffe, 33 S. Fair Oaks, Pasadena. (818) 568-0203. Style: Storefront look, ample antipasto bar. Setting: Bricks and beams. Recommended: Pizza portofino ; grilled veal chop; tirami su. Cost per person: $10-$25.

Osteria Nonni, 3219 Glendale Blvd., Atwater. (213) 666-7133. Style: Trendy Angeli clone. Setting: Pseudo-industrial. Recommended: Pizza ai quattro stagioni ; croquettes di patate; spaghetti puttanesca. Cost: $10-$20.

Pazzia, 755 N. La Cienega, Los Angeles. (213) 657-9271. Style: A fine madness by the man who opened Rex. Setting: Designer-gorgeous: Ricci silverware, Aldo Rossi chairs. Recommended: Pappa al pomodoro; yellow pepper soup; ravioli with lentils and pine nuts. Cost per person: $25-$40.

Trovare, 21618 Ventura Blvd., Woodland Hills. (818) 340-4451. Style: Where the West Valley chic eat Italian. Setting: Mirrors, furs, acrylic nails. Recommended: Calamari fritti ; Scottish salmon; Trovare scampi. Cost per person: $12-$30.

Zio and Company, 5242 Van Nuys Blvd., Sherman Oaks. (818) 784-8051. Style: Part imported food market, part neighborhood restaurant--all home-style cooking. Setting: Larger-than-life papier-mache figurative sculptures. Recommended: Lasagne; linguine with black mussels; lemon roasted chicken. Cost per person: $15-25.