Just Desserts : <i> Sweet tooth sustenance.</i>

Citrus, 6703 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles. (213) 857-0034. Style: California-French by L.A.’s premiere French pastry chef. Setting: Patio dining and looking-glass kitchen. Recommended: Mille feuille with creme brulee, $6.50.

City Restaurant, 180 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles. (213) 938-2155. Style: Kicky California for foodies. Setting: Urban barn. Recommended: City chocolate, $6.

Fennel, 1535 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica. (213) 394-2079. Style: French, with rotating bi-continental chefs. Setting: Casual California beach chic. Recommended: Hot chocolate tart with pistachio sauce, $7.

L’Orangerie, 903 N. La Cienega, West Hollywood. (213) 652-9770. Style: Costly classic French. Setting: Drop dead gorgeous. Recommended : Tarte aux pommes chaudes (apple tart) served with a silver pitcher of whipped cream, $10.

Parkway Grill, 510 S. Arroyo Parkway, Pasadena. (818) 795-1001. Style: Trendy Spago copycat. Setting: Bricks and boards. Recommended: S’mores, $5.50.