After-Midnight : <i> We gonna let it all hang out; We gonna chug-a-lug and shout. : (--J.J. Cale)</i>

Chaya Brasserie, 8741 Alden Dr., Los Angeles. (213) 859-8833. Style : Big deal eclectic bistro with a special late-supper menu between 11 and 12:30. Setting : Rustic Japanese. Recommended dishes : Spicy seafood spring rolls; tuna tartare; smoked chicken salad. Cost per person, food only : $10-$25

Cocola, 410 Boyd St., Los Angeles. (213) 680-0756. Style : This high-tech watering hole for the artsy set doesn’t close its doors until 2 a.m. Setting : Spare, with large sculpture over an enormous bar. Recommended dishes : Roast chicken; 5 Alarm Chili; devil’s food cake. Cost per person, food only : $8-$25

Dan Tana’s, 9071 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood. (213) 275-9444. Style : The kitchen at this old Hollywood hangout is open until 12:45 a.m. Setting : Red and white checks; tan celebs. Recommended dishes: Spaghetti with meat balls; cannelloni ; steak. Cost per person, food only : $15-$35.

Kate Mantilini, 9101 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills. (213) 278-3699. Style : You can raid the refrigerator at this incarnation of an old-fashioned American grill until 2 a.m. Setting : Modern arena. Recommended dishes : Clams casino; lamb shank with braised vegetables. Cost per person, food only : $12-$45.

Pacific Dining Car, 1310 W. 6th St., Los Angeles. (213) 483-6000. Style : 24-hour politico steak-and-handshake haunt. Setting : Dark and clubby. Recommended dishes : Steak, rack of lamb. Musli with fresh fruit. Cost per person, food only : $8-$35.