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Tree Houses : <i> From little acorns, big restaurants grow.</i>

Four Oaks, 2181 N. Beverly Glen Blvd., Los Angeles. (213) 470-2265. Style: Rustic retreat for country French. Setting: Romantic. Recommended: Potato soup; roast baby chicken with poached vegetables; apple tart with homemade ice cream. Cost per person: $40-$55.

Maple Drive, 345 N. Maple Dr., Beverly Hills. (213) 274-9800. Style: 72 Market St., The Sequel. Setting: Big-budget beautiful. Recommended: Foie gras ; yellowtail-and-tuna tartare ; charred tuna. Cost per person: $20-$45.

The Palm, 9001 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood. (213) 550-8811. Style: Surf ‘n turf for celebs. Setting: Sawdust and stardust. Recommended: Steak; lobster; cottage fries. Cost per person: $35-$50.

The Pines, 4343 Pearblossom Highway, Palmdale. (805) 947-7455. Style: A dream of a diner. Setting: Rustic rural, with picnic tables, paneling and rodeo posters. Recommended: Chicken-fried steak; tortilla cake; raisin pie. Cost per person: $5-$10.

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Plum Tree Inn, 937 N. Hill St., Los Angeles. (213) 613-1819. Style: Popular Shanghainese dinner house for non-foodies. Setting: Upscale coffee shop. Recommended: Plum Tree beef; moo shu pork; Chinese chicken salad. Cost per person: $12-$20.


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