THE WINE LIST

It appears as if some sanity is creeping back into upscale wine lists. Here’s the question I can’t answer: Is this due to a growing realization that consumers are revolting against high pricing?

Consider the list at Bistro 201, Orange County’s latest hot ticket.

On first glance I was disappointed to find that the prices were the average 2.5-times-wholesale markups, but then I looked again. I found that some of the wines were older vintages (1981 Heitz Bella Oaks Cabernet, $60; 1979 Mondavi Reserve Cabernet in magnum, $110; 1982 Castello di Gabbiano Chianti Classico Riserva, $35; 1979 Chateau Talbot, $55).

And then I discovered that glassware was not only crystal, but well thought-out. The white wine glasses are medium-sized straight-sided tulips, the red wine glasses larger versions. But for older wines, and upon request of diners, the staff will bring out large crystal bowl stems, a grand touch. (Is it just me or does red wine really taste better when drunk out of this kind of glass?)

No real bargains exist on this list, but the selection is so good that it offers the diner a number of $20-and-under choices worth considering. Among the whites, the better values are 1988 Meridian Chardonnay ($20); 1988 Honig Sauvignon Blanc ($15); 1988 Matanzas Creek Sauvignon Blanc ($20); Ferrari-Carano Fume Blanc ($20); three excellent German Rieslings under $20; 1987 Trimbach Gewurztraminer ($18), and the best value on the list, 1989 Spottswoode Sauvignon Blanc at $18.

The red wines offer more of the same, at $24 and under: 1988 Ravenswood Zinfandel ($16); 1986 Hess Collection Cabernet ($24); 1988 Ceretto Dolcetto d’Alba ($23); 1985 Travaglini Gattinara ($22), and 1988 DuBoeuf Moulin-A-Vent ($20).

The dessert list includes five ports by the glass; 14 brandies and Cognacs and 10 eaux de vie and grappas. Service is eager and glasses are promptly refilled.

This list is creative--wide enough to satisfy even the most finicky, with wine from Alsace, Italy, Germany, California and the Rhone. While it isn’t low-priced, for an upscale place with such impressive decor, glassware and service, this list seems sane.