RESTAURANTS : Shrimp Ahoy : <i> Who can resist these crustaceans?</i>

The Ivy, 113 N. Robertson Blvd., Los Angeles. (213) 274-8303. Style: The celebrity-filled restaurant everybody loves to hate. Setting: Country-cottage cute. Recommended: Country-green salad with mesquite-grilled Louisiana shrimp; crab cakes; grilled fish. Cost per person: $30-$40.

Mon Kee, 17337 Ventura Blvd., Encino. (818) 788-7272. Style: Suburban Chinese seafood restaurant. Setting: Large and noisy. Recommended: Shrimp with spicy rock salt; kung pao shrimp; crab in black bean sauce. Cost per person: $13-$20.

Ocean Star Seafood Restaurant, 112 N. Chandler Ave., Monterey Park. (818) 300-8446. Style: The shrimp at this hot Chinese restaurant are so fresh, they’re still swimming. Setting: Cigar box. Recommended: Shrimp, steamed and served with a bowl of soy sauce and chiles; siin ha gyn, stuffed live shrimp; pan-fried clam with black bean and chile sauce. Cost per person: $10-$30.

Packard Grill, 4301 N. Figueroa St., Highland Park. (213) 223-1200. Style: Grill food with body. Setting: A former Packard agency, filled with Packard memorabilia. Recommended: Spicy shrimp on polenta; shrimp and artichoke pasta; grilled chicken salad; chocolate bourbon cake. Cost per person: $7-$13.