Katella Deli Off the Beaten Track

With a 3-year-old and an infant, we don’t go out to eat a lot, but when we do it’s to the Katella Deli in Los Alamitos, across from the race track. And while Katella isn’t exactly in our neighborhood, we’ve found it worth the drive, especially for weekend brunch.

Old-timers say this latest 280-seat incarnation, which opened in 1985, doesn’t have the intimate feel of the original place that sat a half mile away on the corner of Katella and Los Alamitos Boulevard. But for us, the place still has the feel of an individually owned, well-run, family eatery--despite the size. There is a bar with big-screen televisions; an airy, indoor patio; a long counter; and three other dining rooms. Because the deli is segmented, the scale feels comfortably small.

The no-frills menu, best described as suburban Jewish, attracts a nonsectarian crowd that ranges from those who come for the matzoh ball soup to those who need to have the dish explained to them. As expected, the sandwich list leans heavily on delicatessen. Ethnic favorites are prominent entrees, such as chicken in the pot and a white fish platter. Breakfast, which features a variety of egg, meat, fish and vegetable combinations, accompanied by bagels, is served all day.

In addition, there are a number of regular, cosmopolitan chicken entrees, including Chinese (cashew), Japanese (teriyaki) and Italian (Parmesan), and the daily specials feature at least one fresh fish dish. There is a child’s section of the menu, a salad bar and a counter where you can build your own burger and hot dog combo sandwiches.

The quality is dependable, the prices are reasonable (complete meals for under $10) and the portions are, for the most part, ample. Rarely do we leave without a doggie bag full enough for a second meal.

Best of all, Katella Deli doesn’t mind kids, and little seems to faze the experienced staff. “Of course I want families,” says owner Allan Ratman, the second generation of his family to run Katella, founded in 1965. “I cater to them.”

The servers--who do not introduce themselves--are usually prompt. They are also sufficiently experienced that ours routinely take complicated orders from a table of four without writing them down or getting them wrong. There is a retail deli and an extremely well-stocked bakery attached, the chief benefit of which is the threat of “no cookie for dessert” in the event of prolonged misbehavior.

The busiest times are sometimes before the races, when there is satellite wagering from Del Mar, and on Sundays, beginning about mid-morning when religious services let out. A wait of about 30 minutes is average. Newcomers to Orange County--with or without small children--who are homesick for Junior’s on the Westside of Los Angeles, or Miami’s Rascal House, should give Katella Deli a try.

Katella Deli. 4470 Katella Ave. Los Alamitos. Open Mondays through Thursdays, 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Fridays through Sundays till 11 p.m. (213) 594 8611.