Crispy Rosettes: A Delicate Challenge

Crispy rosettes sprinkled with powdered sugar were a big attraction at carnivals and county fairs back in the ‘50s and ‘60s. Still warm from frying, they were so delicate it was a challenge to eat one without it breaking apart and falling onto the dusty midway.

Similar rosettes--on a smaller scale--can be made at home using handles with detachable irons in a variety of shapes available at most cookware stores. Sweet rosettes may be sprinkled with powdered sugar and served as dessert with fruit or a sauce; use savory variations as the base for creamed chicken or seafood.

To cook rosettes properly, use fresh oil about two inches deep and heated to 365 degrees. Begin preparation by thoroughly heating the iron in the oil (Step 1). Once hot, remove the iron, allowing any excess oil to drip back into the pan.

Dip the hot iron into the batter until three-quarters covered (Step 2). After a few seconds, lift the iron and allow the excess batter to drip off. If the iron is totally covered with batter, it will be difficult to release the rosette after frying.

Submerge the iron in the hot oil (Step 3). When the batter begins to brown, lift the iron and use the tines of a fork to gently release the rosette (Step 4). As the rosette iron becomes more seasoned with use, the cooked rosettes may release without any assistance.

Carefully turn the rosette and continue frying until golden brown (Step 5). Remove with a slotted spatula and drain briefly on paper towels before sprinkling with powdered sugar (Step 6).

You can make edible shells in the same manner by changing the iron attachment. Heat the iron shell well before dipping it in the batter and keep it submerged until the shell has a chance to form. Fry in the hot oil (Step 7), then release with the assistance of a fork (Step 8) and continue to fry, turning as needed, until golden brown.

Store rosettes or shells in airtight containers at room temperature or freeze. Recrisp in minutes in an oven set at 300 degrees.

SWEET ROSETTE BATTER

1 egg

1/2 cup evaporated milk

1/2 cup water

1 teaspoon sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 cup flour

Beat egg lightly. Combine with milk, water, sugar and salt. Slowly add flour, then beat until smooth with rotary beater or electric mixer. Cover batter and refrigerate at least 2 hours.

Dip hot iron into batter until about three-fourths covered. Place in hot oil and cook until batter begins to brown. Release rosette from iron, turn and brown on second side.

Remove rosette with slotted spatula and drain on paper towels. Makes about 3 dozen (2 1/2-inch) rosettes.

Variation: For savory rosettes, omit sugar and substitute onion or garlic salt, paprika or other seasonings to taste.