THE HOME COOK : Farmers Market Produce: The Buys of Summer

My first summer visits to the farmers market are always buying sprees. It is impossible to pass up the first cherries and peaches, the red onions, peas and summer squash. Even later, when summer produce shopping starts to become routine, the farmers market is so enticing that I usually buy far more than we need.

Here are a few of the things I do with the bonanza--three summer dishes that look appetizing and taste good.

These are versatile basic recipes: You can use other vegetables with the pasta, and other soft fruits or berries for the pie and lemon bars.

Early summer peaches are brimming with flavor but lack sweetness--which make them perfect for this method of baking fruit pies that retain that fresh sparkle. The trick to this pie is mashing half the peaches, sweetening and thickening them, then stirring in the remaining half of fresh, uncooked slices.

FRESH PEACH AND STRAWBERRY PIE

5 cups peaches, peeled and sliced

3 tablespoons cornstarch

1 cup sugar

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 cups strawberries, hulled and sliced

1 baked (9-inch) pie shell

1 cup whipping cream

2 tablespoons powdered sugar

Crush 3 cups peaches with fork. Place crushed peaches in heavy-bottom pan. Stir in cornstarch, sugar and lemon juice. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until mixture is thickened, clear or translucent. Remove from heat and cool. Stir in remaining sliced peaches and strawberries, saving few strawberry slices to mound on top of pie for garnish. Spread fruit mixture in baked pie shell. Whip cream with powdered sugar and spread over top of pie. Garnish with strawberry slices. Makes 6 servings.

Note: If you want to prepare fruit early in day before serving, cook peach mixture and stir in sliced peaches when cooked mixture is cool. Place peaches in bowl, cover and refrigerate until just before serving. Proceed as directed above, adding sliced strawberries and covering with whipped cream.

This pasta dish is very easy to make because it involves a simple one-pot process. Two or three minutes before the pasta is finished cooking, add the peas, then drain, add butter and pepper and serve.

WHOLE-WHEAT SPAGHETTINI AND PEAS

3/4 pound whole-wheat spaghettini

2 1/2 pounds shell peas, shelled (about 2 1/2 cups shelled)

Salt, pepper

1 tablespoon fresh tarragon, chopped or 1 1/2 teaspoons dried tarragon

1/2 cup butter, cut into pieces

Bring large pot of salted water to boil. Add spaghettini and cook about 15 minutes, or until just tender. Add 1/2 of peas and cook 2 minutes. Drain and quickly stir in salt and pepper to taste, tarragon, butter and remaining peas. Serve hot. Makes about 6 servings.

LEMON-BERRY BAR TART

3 eggs

1/2 cup lemon juice

2 tablespoons white vinegar

Grated zest from 2 lemons

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

1/4 cup flour

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

Crust

1 1/2 cups strawberries, hulled and sliced in half, and lightly sugared

Beat eggs well in mixing bowl. Stir in lemon juice, vinegar, lemon zest, sugar, flour, baking powder and salt. Mix well. Pour over baked Crust and bake at 350 degrees 12 to 15 minutes, or until lemon custard is set but still trembly in center. Remove from oven and cool. When ready to serve, arrange strawberries on top. Makes about 6 servings.

Crust

1 1/3 cups flour

3 tablespoons sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup butter, at room temperature

1 tablespoon water, optional, if needed to bring dough together

Combine flour, sugar and salt in mixing bowl. Cut in butter, rubbing mixture together until blended. Pat into ball. If too crumbly to hold together, add water and knead into ball. Pat dough into 9-inch tart pan or pie pan, or roll dough out on board and fit into pie or tart pan. Bake at 350 degrees 10 to 15 minutes, or until shell is lightly browned. Cool. Makes 1 (8-inch) pie or tart crust.