Sweet, Flint, Dent: The Families of Corn

There are five main families of corn. Popcorn (the oldest cultivated variety) and flint corn are the varieties most favored by North American Indians and are still the favorite in Africa. Both are high in protein. Their hard hull doesn’t allow moisture to escape, so when heated, the starch expands and bursts the hull.

Dent corn, used mainly as animal feed, was the Indian symbol of female fertility. It’s both starchy and sweet. Flour corn, low in protein and soft, is rarely seen outside of Central and South America, where it is prized for its “grindability.”

Sweet corn is the variety that most of us know. There are both winter and summer crops. Summer corn is lighter in color and less starchy than winter corn. Freshly picked and cooked--the hard-cores claim that more than seven minutes from field to kitchen and the corn is ruined--the kernels pop when you bite them, exploding little bursts of sweet, syrupy flavor.

Corn on the cob, although most often boiled, is much sweeter when the ears are soaked in water for 30 minutes and then grilled or broiled for about 15 minutes. Place them directly into the hot coals of a fire, or about six inches from a broiler flame. The kernels steam and take on flavor from the husks.

Sweet corn is picked when still young and immature. It stores more sugar than starch. During the summer, use the young corn in salads and soups and as a vegetable. When you can find white corn during the summer months, always buy it in preference to yellow, because it is less starchy and much sweeter.

When using frozen corn or canned corn in a recipe, make certain to drain the kernels well before using. Often frozen corn is sweeter than winter corn, so use it during the winter months when you want sweet corn as a vegetable.

CORN AND LOBSTER CHOWDER

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 medium onion, coarsely diced (about 3/4 cup)

1 medium carrot, coarsely diced (about 3/4 cup)

1 stalk celery, coarsely diced (about 3/4 cup)

4 cups combination water and bottled clam juice

1/2 cup dry white wine

1 1/2 pounds live lobster

2 ears corn, shucked (about 2 cups kernels)

1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary or 1/4 teaspoon dried

1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Melt butter over low heat in large stockpot. Add onion, carrot and celery and slowly saute 3 to 4 minutes or until tender. Add water-clam juice mixture and wine. Increase heat to high and bring to boil. Plunge live lobster into broth and cook, covered, 8 minutes. Remove lobster and let stand until cool enough to comfortably handle.

Remove tail and claws and reserve. Slice lobster down middle and scoop “green meat” and roe from body into bowl. Add remainder of body shell to soup. Remove tail and claw meat from shell and finely dice. Add to green meat in bowl.

Meanwhile, reduce heat of broth and add corn. If using dried rosemary, add now, along with nutmeg. Simmer soup, covered, 20 minutes. Remove lobster body from soup. Transfer soup to food processor and pulse until coarsely pureed. Return soup to pot and add lobster. Simmer over low heat until warm. Add chopped fresh rosemary to piping hot soup just before serving. Makes 4 to 5 servings.

CORN, ARUGULA, RED ONION AND RED PEPPERS

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon finely minced garlic

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

1/3 cup virgin olive oil

1/2 teaspoon salt, about

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, pepper

2 large ears fresh corn

1/2 small red onion

2 bunches arugula

2 medium sweet red peppers

Combine mustard, garlic and vinegar in small mixing bowl and mix until smooth. Using fork or small whisk, slowly beat in oil, few drops at time, until incorporated. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Remove kernels from uncooked corn. Finely slice onion from tip to stem. Wash arugula, remove lower stems and pat dry. Remove stem and seeds from red peppers and thinly slice from tip to stem. Combine corn, red onion, arugula and red peppers in mixing bowl. Add vinaigrette and toss well. Mound on plates. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

CORN RISOTTO WITH OKRA AND SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS

1/2 cup unsalted butter

3 cups corn kernels (about 3 large ears)

2 tablespoons finely minced shallots

1 cup homemade or canned chicken stock

1 cup whipping cream

1/2 cup grated Parmesan or Romano cheese

12 okra

12 medium shiitake mushroom caps

1/4 teaspoon salt, about

Freshly ground pepper

Melt 1/4 cup butter in medium saucepan over medium heat. Add corn and shallots and cook 1 minute. Add 1/2 cup chicken stock. Increase heat to high and cook quickly until liquid is reduced. Add whipping cream and cook, reducing again until thick, about 7 minutes. Remove from heat and add cheese.

Transfer mixture to blender or food processor and pulse to break up corn kernels. Scrape corn onto serving platter and keep warm in oven at 200 degrees.

Heat remaining 1/4 cup butter in skillet over medium heat. Add okra and mushrooms and cook, stirring, 3 minutes. Add remaining 1/2 cup stock and continue to cook until stock reduces and thickens. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove corn from oven and arrange sauteed mushrooms and okra and juices on top. Makes 4 servings.