Chopping Block for the Counter

There are at least two good reasons for installing a section of butcher block in your existing kitchen countertop. One is to provide a convenient work area where you can chop away without fear of damaging your counter. Another is to replace a section of countertop that has already been damaged by abrasion, careless chopping or possibly heat.

One easy way to get the job done is shown in the sketch. The idea here is to cut out a rectangular section of countertop as wide as the cabinet beneath it. You can then screw a pair of strips to the sides of the cabinet below to create supports for the edges of the butcher block insert, which then simply drops into place.

It’s probably easiest to make the rectangular cutout with the countertop still in place. The tool for this is a saber saw and a very fine-toothed blade. One blade I have used that does this job perfectly is made by Parker Mfg. of Worcester, Mass. Unlike most other blades, the Parker Trojan SXF will cut Formica countertops face up without any chipping at all. Most hardware stores carry these blades.

To make this job easy, don’t carry the cutout all the way to the back of the counter. Why? Because your saber saw can’t cut right up flush to a wall or backsplash. With that in mind, plan to end your cut three or four inches from the back of the counter (check with your saw to see how close you can go). Then lay out your cuts accordingly.

For a little extra insurance against chipping, you can lay down a strip of masking tape over your line of cut. Drill starting holes for your saw at both back corners and a couple inches back from the front edge of the counter. Then use your saber saw to saw out all of the cutout except for the front three inches or so along both sides. Finish the cuts up front with a fine handsaw. If you use the saber saw up front you’ll cut into the front of your cabinets.

After making the cut, smooth it up as necessary with a file. Level the edges of the Formica slightly to reduce their sharpness. Then seal the edges of the cut countertop with two coats of oil-based enamel. This will offer protection against any moisture that might seep down into the seam between the countertop and the insert.

The Insert: You can buy butcher block countertop material by the foot at any lumberyard. Get a section long enough to fit the cutout. It will be wider than you need, so rip it down to the proper width with a good power saw.

Most butcher block is 1 1/2 inches thick, the same as the front edge of most countertops. But most countertops lap down 3/4 inch over the front of the cabinet. To let your insert set down flush with the rest of the countertop, you’ll have to cut a 3/4 X 3/4 inch dado along the bottom of the insert, up near the front edge. This dado can then set down over the edge of the cabinet front. The two strips screwed to the base cabinets should be set down about 3/4 inch, too.

The best way to set the position of these support strips is to place the insert in position and adjust it until it is level with the rest of the countertop. Then, working from below, draw a pencil line along the bottom edge of the insert onto the sides of the cabinet below.

Now remove the insert and screw your support strips in position just below these lines. Set the insert back in position and the job is done. You can secure the insert with screws driven up through the support strips from below, but this isn’t really necessary.

Los Angeles Times Syndicate