RESTAURANT REVIEW MARKET CITY CAFFE : New and Approved : The antipasto bar, the salads, the grilled chicken, the sweet Italian sausages . . . make one almost forget pizza’s on the menu.

Let me apologize to you pizza lovers, since here we are in an Italian restaurant with eight pizzas and a calzone on the menu--and I’m completely ignoring them. That’s because I got so involved with the other types of Italian food at the new Market City Caffe in Thousand Oaks that I didn’t get to the pizzas.

But if the largest--and probably the tastiest--antipasto bar in the region sounds tempting, then don’t go away.

Several years ago, Sal Casola and Chipper Pastron opened the Market City Caffe in Pasadena, and now they’ve migrated west to the Conejo Valley, with the same concept. Sal’s brother Michael is running the new store.

When Michael mentioned that Samuel Pastron, Chipper’s grandfather, who has been “in the grocery business all his life,” had helped with the interior decorating, I had a hard time figuring out how this grocery background fit into decorating a restaurant.

Then I went to the restaurant and noticed that in addition to the antipasto table in front of a glassed-in kitchen, there were lots of displays of produce scattered about as decorations against the gray shades and blond woods of the interior.

The antipasto bar, which can be enjoyed either as an appetizer or as a full meal, is sparkling. There are slices of eggplant grilled in olive oil, and a platter of those wonderful, caramelized roasted garlic cloves. Fresh spinach is done simply, in olive oil and garlic, and salad of hearts of palm sits on its own platter. Not to mention marinated mushrooms and a variety of olives. There are marinated artichoke hearts and one of the house specialties--the oven-roasted garlic potatoes. The potatoes come sliced in their skins, done crisply in garlic and oil, and are also used as a side dish on the house entrees.

I’m a fan of Market City’s salads. The Caesar, even if it is spelled wrong on the menu, and even without the chicken as an option (Is it still a Caesar salad if it’s got chicken?) is easily a meal in itself. This Thousand Oaks version has all the crispness you need in a Caesar, with slivers of Parmesan cheese on top and just the right hint of anchovies.

Another salad that is a meal is the Insalata di Calamari, with the calamari mixed with diced tomatoes, large capers, mixed greens, balsamic vinegar and olive oil.

It’s also easy to be enthusiastic about the Caffe’s meat dishes. Among the best is the Pollo alla Diavola, a small, crisply grilled chicken, marinated in lemon and rosemary, served with those garlicky roasted potatoes and grilled eggplant. It is worth ordering--but you might ask them about keeping it in the oven a few minutes longer.

Perhaps the best sweet Italian sausages in the county are served here--and they’re not even homemade--the Salsicce alla Griglia. They’re made for Market City by T.J. in Orange County, and they’re outstanding. Juicy and tangy, with a spiciness just subtle enough that you don’t really taste it until it hits the back of your mouth.

On the list of pastas, I think it’s best to stick with one of the simpler models--like the Spaghettini al Pomodoro e Basilico.

The Market City Caffe is a nice place to eat and a good value--especially at the antipasto bar, and I’d go back. I’d go back just to see if the waiters have learned anything more about their menu. Each time I’ve eaten there service has been less than stellar.

Personally, I’m getting a little tired of tiramisu for dessert--and Market City Caffe’s version didn’t do much to make me change my mind. They do make their own desserts, and chocolate lovers with no concern for calories can enjoy digging into the rich, heavy Chocolate Walnut Cranberry Cake.

* WHERE AND WHEN

Market City Caffe, 105 Brazil St., Thousand Oaks, (805) 371-1345. Open seven days from 11:30 a.m. Major credit cards accepted, reservations accepted, full bar. Lunch or dinner for two, food only, $19-$52. Recommended dishes: Insalata di Calamari ($5.55), Salsicce alla Griglia ($8.25).