THE OLIVE PIT

It was with special interest that I read Ruth Reichl’s review of Olive restaurant (“The Olive Pit,” Aug. 18) because I had just eaten there the night before.

It was indeed “the darkest, smokiest and, above all, the noisiest restaurant you can imagine.” And, true to form, the officious maitre d’ continuously paraded around the room talking on a portable phone. Style, or more appropriately, “attitude,” heavily outweighed substance.

However, in all fairness to Olive, my friends and I had a much more pleasant dining experience there than the review indicates anyone could ever hope to have.

First, the service was certainly adequate, if not exceptionally friendly (when asked if the music could be turned down a bit, our waiter curtly informed us he doubted “they” would lower the volume). However, he did make sure we were aware of the specials on the additional menu and took our orders promptly. The starters and entrees were served with perfect timing, and our iced-tea glasses were never empty.

Second, and more important, our food was excellent and, in my opinion, acceptably priced. My Caesar salad was fresh, crisp and, if anything, in need of a little more dressing. The filet au poivre was an excellent piece of meat, extremely flavorful, tender and cooked exactly to order. The sauce was rich and laced with peppercorns, not at all floury. So what was the secret to our success? Perhaps it was the fact that we opened the place, arriving around 6:15 p.m. I have no doubt that as evenings progress, service and food quality rapidly deteriorate, and “attitude” becomes the real special of the day at Olive.

ERIC SCHELLINGER

Los Angeles