Holiday Baking : We’ve Got Big Truffles

Opinions vary on the ideal size of a chocolate truffle. In the cookbook “Chocolate Sensations” (HP Books: 1986), author Faye Levy says: “. . . I find that the small, European-style truffles give the most pleasure. The chocolate is so rich that one or two bites are usually enough--and one can always have a second or third truffle!”

At the opposite end of the spectrum, in “Cocolat” (Warner Books: 1990), Alice Medrich explains how her recipe for American chocolate truffles evolved: “When I first began making chocolate-dipped truffles (in addition to the simple cocoa-dusted variety), I lost control of the size while trying to perfect the dipping method. By the time I realized that the truffles were much too large, my customers were totally hooked.”

These authors do agree, however, that truffles may be made without the chocolate used for coating being tempered. Tempering is the process of heating and cooling chocolate to certain temperatures so the fat crystals stabilize and it dries hard and shiny and breaks with a crisp snap. This is necessary when chocolate will be stored at room temperature.

Untempered chocolate tends to bloom (turn whitish gray or streaky) unless it’s refrigerated. This detracts from the appearance but doesn’t affect quality. Since homemade truffles may be stored in the refrigerator and are often coated with cocoa powder, tempering is optional.

“This is good news because tempering is not easy to master unless you do it almost every day--despite the detailed, and sometimes even simple-sounding, directions that you may find,” says Medrich. “Each brand of chocolate behaves differently and even may require slightly different temperatures during each stage of tempering. The temperature and humidity of the kitchen can also affect tempering.”

The following is an adaptation of Medrich’s recipe. Any flavored liqueur may be stirred into the truffle center mixture before straining.

To make the centers, cut the chocolate and butter into small pieces and place in a medium bowl. Bring the whipping cream to simmering in a saucepan, then remove from the heat and pour it over the chocolate and butter. Stir gently with a wooden spoon or rubber spatula until the chocolate is completely melted and the mixture is smooth.

Strain the chocolate mixture into another bowl and cool without stirring. Refrigerate until very firm, several hours or overnight.

Scrape a small ice cream scoop across surface of the cold truffle mixture (Step 1) and use your fingertips to form the mixture into one-inch balls (Step 2). Place them in a pan and freeze, uncovered, several hours or overnight, until very hard.

Cut the remaining chocolate into small pieces and place it in a dry, medium-size bowl. Melt by placing the bowl in a pan of barely simmering water or a microwave oven on MEDIUM (50% power) about five minutes, stirring frequently.

The chocolate is ready for dipping when melted, smooth and 115 degrees to 120 degrees. If using a water bath, remove the bowl and carefully wipe the outside dry (even a drop of moisture will cause the chocolate to thicken and seize). Pour the melted chocolate into a large shallow pan.

If right-handed, place half the frozen truffle centers on the left of the pan, a parchment-lined baking sheet on the right. (Reverse the position of the centers and baking sheet if you’re left-handed.) With your left hand, drop a center into the chocolate (Step 3). Use your right hand to scoop chocolate over the center (Step 4), pushing it back and forth until entirely coated.

Wipe this hand on the side of the pan to remove most of the chocolate. Pick up the coated center with this same hand, shake off the excess chocolate and place the truffle on the baking sheet. Working quickly, repeat this procedure with the remaining centers (Step 5), then the half that are still frozen.

Refrigerate the dipped truffles until the chocolate sets, then remove them from the paper and store in a closed container in the refrigerator up to two weeks or the freezer up to three months. The truffles may also be coated with cocoa powder (Step 6).

CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES

2 pounds 10 ounces semisweet or bittersweet chocolate

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 cup whipping cream

Cut 10 ounces chocolate and butter into small pieces and place in medium bowl. Set aside.

Bring cream to simmer in saucepan. Remove from heat and pour over chocolate and butter. Stir gently with wooden spoon or rubber spatula until chocolate is completely melted and mixture is smooth.

Strain mixture into another bowl. Allow to cool without stirring. Refrigerate until very firm, several hours or overnight.

Scrape small ice cream scoop or melon baller across surface of cold truffle mixture. Use fingertips to form mixture into 1-inch balls. Place in pan and freeze, uncovered, several hours or overnight, until very hard.

Cut remaining 2 pounds chocolate into small pieces and place in dry, medium bowl. Melt chocolate by placing bowl in pan of barely simmering water or microwave on MEDIUM (50% power) about 5 minutes. Stir frequently.

Chocolate is ready for dipping when melted, smooth and 115 to 120 degrees. If using water bath, remove bowl and wipe outside dry. Pour chocolate into large shallow pan.

If right-handed, place 1/2 frozen truffle centers on left of pan, parchment-lined baking sheet on right. (Reverse position of centers and baking sheet if left-handed.) With left hand, drop 1 center into chocolate. Use right hand to scoop chocolate over center, pushing back and forth until entirely coated.

Wipe hand on side of pan to remove chocolate. Pick up coated center and shake off excess chocolate. Place truffle on baking sheet. Working quickly, repeat procedure with remaining centers, then 1/2 still frozen.

Refrigerate dipped truffles until chocolate sets. Remove from paper and store in closed container in refrigerator up to 2 weeks or freeze up to 3 months. Makes about 2 dozen.

Note: 1/4 cup Grand Marnier or other liqueur may be stirred into truffle centers, if desired, before mixture is strained. Finished truffles may be coated with unsweetened cocoa powder.