THE WINE LIST

At first glance, the wine lists at Trilussa and Pane e Vino look as if they might have been compiled by the same person. Both list the wines--almost exclusively Italian--in order of ascending price, and both price them fairly. Interestingly, though, there is no overlap between the lists. Trilussa prefers wines from the better-known producers, such as Bolla, Ruffino, Mastroberardino, Biondi-Santi, Mondavi, Kendall-Jackson and Sebastiani. Pane e Vino lists more adventuresome wines from less-well-known producers (Abbazia di Rosazzo, Marchesi di Barolo, Dragani, Machiavelli), few of them very highly rated.

One big difference between the lists is that Trilussa doesn’t tell you the vintages, meaning you’re not sure whether you’re going to get wine from a good vintage (such as 1985) or a bad one (1987). Pane e Vino does specify vintages.

The best values in white wine are both fairly priced: At Trilussa, it’s the Pinot Grigio from Pighin, $21.25; at Pane e Vino, it’s 1989 Honig Sauvignon Blanc, $18. Neither wine list has what I’d call a “heavy hitter” red wine to match with the garlic and sauces, but both have a couple of intensely flavored wines that would work. At Trilussa, I’d try the Taurasi from Mastroberardino, $32; best value at Pane e Vino is the 1986 Chianti Classico Riserva from Machiavelli, $22.50.