Pushing Papayas

Mention papaya and most of us envision a pear-shaped fruit weighing about a pound. This Solo variety (so named because it can be enjoyed by one person) was developed in Hawaii during the 1970s and accounts for most of the papayas sold in the United States.

The larger Mexican papayas, which can tip the scales at 10 or more pounds, are much less common in American markets. Markets often pre-cut and sell these by the piece. Their flavor is muskier and less sweet than the Solo.

In all, there are about 30 species of papayas, ranging in weight from a half pound to 20 pounds. Some are shaped like avocados, others like bananas, pears or watermelons. Their thin exterior skin may be green, orange, rose or yellow; the color of the flesh varies from yellow to salmon.

There are even two strains of the Solo variety--Solo Waimanalo and Solo Sunrise. The more common Waimanalo are pear-shaped with a short neck and bright yellow-orange flesh. Sunrise papayas are slimmer and have salmon-pink flesh that is firmer and less juicy.

When selecting Solo papayas, look for fruit that is partially or completely yellow (other varieties may remain green even if ripe). When ready to eat, a papaya gives when gently pressed in the palm of the hand, like a ripe avocado.

If partially green, allow the fruit to ripen at room temperature in a loosely closed paper bag until it is a uniform yellow-gold. Papaya should be chilled only after it is ripe, then served within a day or two, before it loses flavor.

Cut the papaya in half (Step 1) with a chef’s knife. The center cavity is filled with black-gray seeds that look like oversize caviar, covered in a gelatinous coating.

Scoop the seeds out (Step 2) with a spoon. They are edible, and sometimes restaurants will serve a couple along with a wedge of lime to squeeze over the fruit (Step 3) before eating. Some people, however, find the flavor of the seeds too pungent.

To use as an ingredient, peel a papaya with a paring knife (Step 4) and cut into cubes for fruit salads. Papaya also enhances smoked meat or poultry and seafood salads.

Pureed papaya may be used in salad dressings, marinades, beverages and as a base for ice cream or sorbets. Because the fruit remains firm when cooked, it can be roasted along with meats or threaded onto kebabs before grilling. Slices of papaya, sauteed with a little sugar, make an excellent dessert served as is or over ice cream.