THE WINE LIST

Although the best wine list in Los Angeles is probably at Valentino, Mauro Vincenti’s list at Rex also fills wine lovers with awe.

The selection is broad--51 pages’ worth. To start, I’d choose 1983 Schramsberg Blanc de Noirs, $45, or Ca’ del Bosco Rose, $50. Avoid ’83 Dom Perignon at a silly $220.

For lighter dishes, I’d try 1989 Silverado Chardonnay, $28; 1988 Chateau Woltner Estate Reserve Chardonnay, $45, or 1989 Merryvale Starmont Chardonnay, $25.

Aficionados of Italian wines will have headaches trying to decide from among 1978 Fontanafredda Barolo, $50; 1979 Aldo Conterno Barolo Bricco Bussia “Vigna Colonello,” $50; 1978 Marcarini Barolo Brunate, $50, and 1968 Antonio Vallana Spanna, $35. And that brief list leaves out two dozen more.

If that’s not enough, there are 10 pages of California red wines. Many of the wines date to the early 1970s. Mind-boggling.