Salads: Use Your Bean

When I was growing up, salad had only two first names, at least in summer: “green” and “potato.” It also had one alter ego: coleslaw.

Certainly the pros knew better. James Beard and Helen Brown, for instance, whose “The Complete Book of Outdoor Cookery” was first published in 1955, gave more than 60 recipes for alternate salads.

They did it in only 10 pages too, because they left the details to the cook. Their recipe for White Salad, for example, reads: “Sliced cauliflower, chopped celery, white onion, the white part of cucumber are all dressed with sour cream and seasoned with salt and white pepper.”

This might seem a bit elliptical, but it makes sense not to worry about exact quantities. Summer vegetables vary greatly in flavor and tenderness, summer markets vary in their offerings, and only you know who hates dill or who has a passion for hot chiles.

Today you might look for ideas from your favorite takeout places, remembering that cream can often be substituted for mayonnaise and has only half the calories. Bake potatoes and steam vegetables at night, when it’s cool. And cook lots of them. Not only are they great in salad, they’re delicious dipped in olive oil and reheated on the grill. Have vegetables such as onions, peppers and eggplants handy for grilling after the burgers are done. Cold grilled vegetables are very tasty just as they are, no dressing required at all.

BLACK BEAN SALAD WITH SUN-DRIED TOMATOES, SWEET ONIONS AND ORANGES

1/2 pound black beans

15 dried tomato halves, about 1/2 cup

1/2 cup olive oil

Juice and pulp of 1 large lemon

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

2 large cloves garlic, minced fine

1 small sweet onion, such as Vidalia, cut into thin shreds about 1/2 inch long

1 large sweet red pepper, cut into scant 1/2-inch dice

2 large seedless oranges, cut into 1/2-inch dice

1/2 cup coarsely chopped parsley

Salt

Coarsely ground pepper

Rinse beans, combine with 1 1/2 cups cold water in tight-lidded saucepan and bring to simmer. Turn heat to low and cook until beans are tender and all water is absorbed, about 1 1/2 hours. Drain.

Place dried tomatoes in heat-proof bowl, pour in boiling water to barely cover, leave 1 minute and drain. Cut into 1/2-inch pieces and reserve.

Combine olive oil, lemon juice and pulp, vinegar and garlic in large, heat-proof bowl. Add hot beans and reserved tomatoes, stir well and allow to cool.

Add onion, red pepper, oranges and parsley, then marinate about 1 hour to mellow onion and blend flavors. Stir occasionally. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Each serving contains about:

316 calories; 148 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 19 grams fat; 32 grams carbohydrates; 9 grams protein; 2.13 grams fiber.

POTATO SALAD LIKE MAMA NEVER MADE

2 pounds orange sweet potatoes (yams)

1 pound green snap beans, trimmed and cut in 1-inch lengths

3 tablespoons chunky peanut butter

1 large clove garlic, grated

1 inch square of peeled ginger root, grated

1 tablespoon aged soy sauce (tamari)

1 tablespoon dark-roasted sesame oil

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

1 small sweet onion such as Vidalia, cut into thin shreds 1/2 inch long, about 1 scant cup

2 small, fleshy, fresh hot chiles such as jalapenos, including seeds, cut in small dice

1 tablespoon whole cumin seeds

Salt

Bake sweet potatoes at 375 degrees about 40 minutes, or just until tender when pierced with knife. Let cool, then peel and cut into generous 1/2-inch dice.

Bring 1/4-inch layer of water to boil in large saucepan. Add snap beans and boil until water has cooked away and beans are tender. Add more water if necessary to prevent scorching. Let cool.

Place peanut butter in large mixing bowl. Stir in garlic, ginger, soy sauce, sesame oil and wine vinegar until smooth paste is formed, then stir in 1/2 cup water. Add sweet potatoes, beans, onion and hot chiles and set aside.

Heat small, heavy skillet over medium heat. Add cumin seeds and toast, shaking pan, until seeds turn brown and fragrant, about 45 seconds. Be careful to avoid scorching. Remove from pan at once.

Stir 2 teaspoons of seeds and 1/2 teaspoon salt into salad and marinate 1 hour, stirring occasionally. Adjust seasonings to taste, adding remaining cumin, if desired. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Each serving contains about:

268 calories; 246 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 48 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 2.80 grams fiber.