Feta Accompli

Recipe-wise, these are exciting times. Books, magazines, television, newspapers--every medium (even the radio) is awash in gastronomic instruction. Ethnic, home-style, low-fat, high-tech . . . the array is almost past comprehension. It’s certainly past execution; no one with anything else to do could even read a fraction of what’s offered, never mind cook it.

And who’d want to? Especially now, when genuinely fresh vegetables and genuinely ripe fruit may be as close as the back yard and are never farther than the nearest market or farm stand. This is when playing around is strictly optional, when a simple plate of sliced tomatoes can be as close to greatness as anything gets.

Cooking, or at least assembling, nevertheless goes on, usually thanks to recipes that have been in the file for years. Plain fish and chicken from the grill are saved from sameness by the ever-changing sauces of summer herbs: pesto, salsa, strong salads of roquette and watercress. And unadorned fruit is the stuff of dessert with nothing more to accompany it than simple cookies and a glass of sweet wine.

A universal favorite, glommed up in unseemly amounts by all, including those who do not otherwise care for feta cheese. The title is the recipe; if ever there were an example of something you make by adding a little of this and a little of that, this is it.

Plenty of crusty French bread or soft fresh pita is an essential part of the ingredient list. Crackers won’t do. The rich oil is at least half of the pleasure, and you need something to sop it up. By extension, this cheese is great in sandwiches, especially those filled mostly with tomatoes, grilled eggplant, peppers or onions.

It’s fine in salads, of course, especially when you get down near the end and it’s mostly an oily paste of herbs, garlic and cheese crumbs. A few chopped cubes make a good garnish for gazpacho; a few more make a nice pizza topping. Mash the cheese with a bit of the oil and spread it on slices of cucumber or use it to stuff celery in place of the everlasting Roquefort. There is no end of possible uses, and as the stuff keeps very well it’s easy to be sure there is always a supply on hand.

Having said my piece about the lack of necessity for a recipe, I offer the quantities below as bare guidelines, ideas of proportions to get you started. There are no rules--except maybe the obvious injunction to keep everything as fresh as possible and be sure to avoid adding any additional salt. Feta is salty enough all by itself.

HERBED FETA IN OLIVE OIL

1 tablespoon minced garlic

3/4 cup finely chopped parsley

2 to 4 tablespoons minced herbs (not more than 2 or 3 kinds per batch) such as basil, marjoram, oregano, dill, savory, coriander, chives, sage, rosemary, thyme, mint, burnet or lovage

1/2 teaspoon cracked black pepper, optional

1 pound feta cheese, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1 1/2 cups strongly flavored extra-virgin olive oil

Thoroughly combine garlic, parsley, herbs and pepper in non-reactive bowl. Add cheese cubes and any crumbs and stir until all are coated. Add olive oil, which should almost or completely submerge cheese. If it doesn’t, add up to 1/2 cup more oil. If cheese is still high and dry, transfer everything to narrower, deeper vessel.

Allow to marinate at least 2 hours. Store tightly covered in refrigerator and use within 1 week or so for best quality. Makes 8 to 10 appetizer portions.