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Fishing for Reality

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THE MOVIE: “A River Runs Through It.”

THE SETUP: Director Robert Redford’s adaptation of Norman Maclean’s autobiographical novel about his relationship with his spirited brother, Paul (Brad Pitt); his minister father (Tom Skerritt), and their relationship with the sport of fly-fishing in rural Montana, circa 1920 to 1935. The contemplative author is played by Craig Sheffer (pictured).

THE COSTUME DESIGNERS: Bernie Pollack--who has worked on about 20 Redford films, including “All the President’s Men,” “Ordinary People,” “The Way We Were,” “The Sting,” “The Natural” and “Havana”--and Kathy O’Rear (who worked on TV’s “Anything But Love”).

THE LOOK: Abercrombie & Fitch--not. In the ‘20s, real fishermen, such as this trio, didn’t bother with such highfalutin sporting accouterments as rubber hip waders, fishing hats or even tackle boxes. (Paul carried his lures in his old hat.) Indeed, it’s quite a shocker the first time we see them wade thigh-high into a river in their ankle-high leather brogans, nubby wool pants, plaid shirts, suspenders and everyday felt fedoras. Besides their great bamboo rods, the Macleans are also never without their wicker creel baskets, which they strap on to carry their fish--and thank goodness. Brawny men wearing baskets is undeniably jaunty.

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There are also nice touches with other costumes. They’re nostalgic without being cute, and some show great humor. Norman’s girlfriend, Jessie (Emily Lloyd), wears outfits--including a long knit vest worn with a necktie, a sailor sweater and pleated skirt--that give her the flair to match her strong personality but that don’t put her out of step with this fashion outback.

QUOTED: “Most people in the ‘20s didn’t have play clothes and dress clothes. They had one set of clothes for both,” says Pollack.

TRY THIS AT HOME: Fishing chic definitely has dash, and Paul’s beat-up fedora studded with hand-tied flies has ‘90s possibilities.

THE RESEARCH: Maclean family photographs, Sears catalogues, vintage calendars and magazines, Montana books (including “Cabin Fever: A Centennial Collection of Stories About the Seeley Lake Area”) and a visit to the Police Museum in Billings, Mont..

THE SOURCES: Most of the principals’ costumes were custom-made at Western Costume. Knits--including Jessie’s sweaters and a shawl-collared cardigan for the senior Maclean--were made by Topaz Knitwear in Hollywood.

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