Squash, Anyone?

With the first chill of autumn, we cooks are happy to exchange the zucchinis and yellow crooknecks of summer for sweet, creamy winter varieties--acorn, butternut and Hubbard squashes and, of course, pumpkin.

American originals, winter squashes have been cultivated for about 9,000 years. Unlike summer varieties that are picked while still immature and tender, winter squashes are allowed to mature into hard, starchy fruits that keep well for months.

Squashes have a satisfyingly bland and vaguely sweet flavor. So don’t just think cloves, cinnamon and mace when seasoning them. They are equally delicious sauteed with bacon and garlic or drizzled with a mild vinegar made from apple cider.

To me, the texture of squash is more attractive than its flavor--a smooth, tactile presence on the tongue that makes it irresistible. It’s not the butter that makes squash so creamy, it’s the flesh itself. So if you’re trying to cut down on fat in your diet, you’ll find squash satisfying.

To maximize its textural appeal, winter squash should be roasted or baked, with only the smallest amount of water in the pan to prevent burning. When the structure of the fruit is broken down after baking, the flesh becomes soft and creamy. Steamed or boiled squash tastes bloated and almost squeaks when you bite into it--it’s not recommended.

These pumpkin pickles are a great condiment to have around the kitchen, and they keep refrigerated for up to a year. Even though they’re spiced with cloves and cinnamon, they don’t taste at all like pumpkin pie filling because they’re both sweet and sour. It’s really a relish, and people are always surprised when I tell them it’s pumpkin. Pair Pickled Pumpkin with hot Indian-style curries.

PICKLED PUMPKIN

2 pounds pumpkin 1/3 cup sugar 1/2 cinnamon stick or 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon 3 whole cloves 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg 1 teaspoon whole coriander 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 cup water 1 cup white wine vinegar

Peel and discard outer skin of pumpkin with vegetable peeler or paring knife. Cut flesh into 1-inch cubes and set aside.

Combine sugar, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, coriander, salt, water and vinegar in 1-quart pan. Place over high heat and bring to boil. Add pumpkin cubes and return to boil. Cook 1 minute. Remove pan from heat and pour contents into container. Allow to cool. Cover and refrigerate 1 week before using. Makes about 1 quart.

Prepare this simple casserole as accompaniment to roasted veal, pork, chicken or turkey.

GRATINEED BUTTERNUT SQUASH

2 pounds butternut squash 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper 2 tablespoons butter, melted 2 eggs 3/4 cup milk 3/4 cup shredded Swiss cheese

Peel and discard outer skin of squash with vegetable peeler or paring knife. Halve squash lengthwise and cut into thin slices. Place slices in large bowl. Add onion, salt, white pepper and melted butter. Toss well. Spoon mixture into buttered 9-inch round or square baking dish. Bake, covered, at 375 degrees 30 minutes.

Meanwhile beat together eggs, milk and cheese. Remove cover from baking dish and pour in cheese mixture. Gently mix to distribute evenly. Bake until golden brown, about 20 minutes longer. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about: 203 calories; 315 mg sodium; 96 mg cholesterol; 10 grams fat; 22 grams carbohydrates; 9 grams protein; 2.23 grams fiber.

This is a variation on a recipe from the Emilia-Romagna province of Italy.

STUFFED PASTA SHELLS

1 3/4 pounds winter squash 1/4 cup water 60 large seashell pasta shells 1/2 pound diced pancetta 1 medium onion, finely diced 1 tablespoon minced garlic 2 tablespoons olive oil 1/4 cup butter 1 teaspoon ground sage Freshly ground pepper 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Halve squash, scoop out seeds and discard. Place squash, cut side down, in baking dish. Add 1/4 cup water. Bake, covered, at 375 degrees until tender, about 1 hour. Remove from oven and scoop out squash flesh into bowl.

Bring large pan of salted water to boil. Add pasta shells and cook until al dente. Drain, cover and set aside.

Combine pancetta, onion, garlic and olive oil in skillet and cook over medium heat 7 minutes. Add mixture to squash and mash together until combined. Generously stuff each pasta shell with spoonful of squash mixture. Arrange in 1 layer in buttered baking dish.

Melt butter in small saucepan over medium heat. Stir in sage. Pour sage-butter over shells. Bake, covered, at 375 degrees 15 minutes. Season to taste with freshly ground pepper and sprinkle with Parmesan cheese. Makes 8 servings.

Each serving contains about: 415 calories; 384 mg sodium; 39 mg cholesterol; 28 grams fat; 32 grams carbohydrates; 10 grams protein; 1.60 grams fiber.