TASTING NOTES : Come to the Cabernet

California’s greatest achievement in wine is unquestionably Cabernet Sauvignon, and from what I’ve tasted out of the barrel, the 1990s from the North Coast will be so good there may be a stampede as collectors try to snag the best before they disappear.

Almost none of the best 1990s are on the shelf yet; in fact, a few are still in the barrel. But one factor wine lovers should look at is house style. And with this in mind I recently staged a blind tasting of available vintages of great Cabernets, all of which should still be available.

The 1989s are lighter in structure and should be good near-term drinking; 1988 was an erratic vintage that produced wines needing some age to smooth out; 1987 was a superb vintage, one of the best in the last decade.

* 1. 1989 Leonetti Cellars from Walla Walla ($25)--Good as California’s Cabernets are, the overall winner of the event was a wine from Washington State. The wine was wonderfully spicy with red currant and cherry aromas, notes of cedar and toast and a long, classic finish that was not judged harsh or astringent. It is not widely available, but the 1990 Leonetti Cabernet (of which only 915 cases were produced) will be released in about two months.

* 2. 1989 S. Anderson Vineyards “Chambers” ($40)--Remarkably fruity and complex without being too thick or coarse, graceful cherry-like flavors and seductive oak notes. This may be winemaker Gary Galleron’s first effort with Cabernet for Anderson, but he is also the winemaker for Grace Family Vineyard, so has a great track record. The fruit for this wine is from the Stag’s Leap district. The 1990 version (600 cases) will be released in October.

* 3. 1987 Kendall-Jackson Vineyards “Cardinale” ($45)--Mint, spice, lots of oak, but plenty of cassis-like fruit too. Powerful and age-worthy. Grapes largely from Chalk Hill area of Sonoma County. The 1988 vintage ($45) has also just been released.

* 4. 1990 Diamond Creek Vineyards “Red Rock Terrace” ($50)--Cherry and sweet oak flavors are muted in a leaner finish, but patience will be rewarded; a fine cellaring wine. Diamond Creek is one of the earlier-releasing wineries in California.

* 5. 1988 Cosentino Winery “The Poet” ($25)--Controversial wine, with one taster falling in love with its penetrating, very ripe fruit. Others found the wine a bit simple and soft.

* 6. 1988 Kendall-Jackson “Proprietor’s Grand Reserve” ($22)--Elegant cherry and sweet oak notes, an attractive plummy quality and supple, complex finish. Occasionally discounted to the $18 range.

* 7. 1989 Meridian Vineyards ($13.50)--From Paso Robles fruit and showing Chuck Ortman’s deft hand. This stunning wine offers mint, herbs, cherries and real depth without coarseness. Often discounted to the $10 range, it’s a great value and a wine that should age six to 10 more years.

* 8. 1988 Rodney Strong Vineyards “Alexander’s Crown” ($18)--Elegant fruit with rich anise-touched black-cherry and cedar notes. A lighter-styled wine than in the past.

* 9. 1987 Conn Creek Vineyards “Triomphe” ($25)--This very limited release wine showed well, with classic Napa Valley herbal-cherry aromas, cedar and a lively, fruity finish. No 1988 or 1989 “Triomphe” was made.

* 10. 1989 Chappellet Vineyards “Signature” ($25)--Loads of black cherries and cassis with broad flavors and some astringency that should fall out in a few years. A gracious and appealing wine, one of Chappellet’s best ever. This wine was released Monday.

* 11. 1989 Joseph Phelps Vineyards “Backus Vineyard” ($30)--Just released, this wine continues an annual tradition: loads of mint; violet, and black-cherry flavors, just coming together in the bottle. A deep, rich, yet completely seductive taste. Not for the faint of heart.

* 12. 1990 Diamond Creek “Gravelly Meadow” ($50)--Fragrance of cherries, red currants and cassis; softer than I expected, with charm and elegance. A good example of the Diamond Creek style.

* 13. 1989 Shafer Vineyards ($19)--Lighter than many but with graceful fruit and a note of olives; tannins need to resolve, but there’s a concentration that leads to elegance in the finish.

* 14. 1989 Ridge Vineyards “Monte Bello” ($40)--Another in the long line of potent, age-worthy Monte Bello Cabernets, this one is deeper than some of the past. It has black-cherry and dill notes, deep fruit and a finish that reminded me of a Rhone, with black pepper and spice. Needs at least a decade of age.

* 15. 1988 Iron Horse Vineyards ($22)--An earthy note in the aroma eventually disappears and shows sour cherry and cedar notes. Time will cure a trace too much tannin.

Other wines that scored well, in random order:

1988 J. Stonestreet Winery ($25)--A Sonoma County brand used by Kendall-Jackson, the wine shows good fruit and oak with a dusty/earthy complexity.

1988 Simi Vineyards “Reserve” ($30)--Black-cherry and wood/spice notes, generous fruit with an anise note. Very good wine, though not as good as Simi’s spectacular 1987.

1989 Livingston Vineyards “Moffett” ($25)--Controversial because of a barnyard-y note, but if you overlook that, it’s got cedar and spice and excellent fruit.

1989 Monticello Vineyards “Corley Reserve” ($25)--Nice cassis aroma and taste, but a trace too tannic and coarse.

1988 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars “Stag’s Leap Vineyard” ($25)--Decent fruit, but a green edge and earthy finish make it taste a bit off center.

1988 Robert Mondavi Winery “Reserve” ($43)--Deep and concentrated fruit, but rather coarse and with some odd flavors that make it hard to love.

The following wines were judged to have no charm, especially for their prices, which are all about $25 a bottle:

1988 Livingston “Moffett”; 1988 Carmenet Vineyards; 1988 Chateau Montelena; 1989 Iron Horse; 1989 La Jota Vineyards; 1987 Kenwood Vineyards “Artist Series”; 1987 Beaulieu Vineyard “Private Reserve”; 1986 Grgich Hills Cellars; 1988 Sullivan Vineyards “Coeur de Vigne”; 1987 Stonegate Vineyards “Reserve”; 1988 Signorello Vineyard “Founder’s Reserve”; 1989 Guenoc Vineyards “Beckstoffer Reserve”; 1988 Clos Pegase Winery “Hommage”; 1988 Bellerose Vineyards “Reserve”; 1987 Jekel Vineyards “Symmetry”; 1989 Far Niente Vineyards; 1989 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars “Fay Vineyard”; 1990 Diamond Creek “Volcanic Hill.”