NIGHT SHIFT : The Zoo Unleashes an Ambience as Delicious as the Coffee

Among the bumper crop of coffeehouses that has shot up in Orange County in the last two years, few have achieved the kind of creative, bohemian ambience associated with the coffeehouse scene in other areas of the country.

But if prizes were being given for taking as much care in setting a mood as in making delicious coffee, The Zoo on the circle in Orange would finish first around here.

Husband and wife owners Richard and Kimberly Lewis opened their funky establishment in November, 1991, just as the county’s coffeehouse scene started to heat up.

The Zoo was more than a year in the making. Richard Lewis (who was also operating a hair salon--called The Endz--at the time) personally built the black Naugahyde booths, reupholstered the ‘50s diner chairs and table tops with leopard and zebra fabric and installed the black and white tiled floor and the steel beams that serve as trims and shelves.

On those shelves sits much of the Lewises’ collection of stainless steel percolators; there were 240 at last count--all still working--and friends and customers keep bringing more in. A cool blue neon tube runs along the wall above the shiny metal pots, illuminating the narrow space.

But The Zoo isn’t all ‘40s and ‘50s nostalgia. There’s a wild element present too, and it’s not just the customers on caffeine. There are stuffed versions of enormous, fuzzy apes (which Richard stitched up himself), monkeys and ferocious cats. A life-size camel stands near the back counter, and small rubber zebras, elephants and kangaroos occupy shelves. Faux palm trees and overhead fans complete the caged-in-a-retro-diner feel.

A front counter space shoots out “to go” orders during the morning rush and on busy weekend nights. Otherwise, patrons must walk to the back counters for their orders--unless one of the waitresses decked out in a white and black ‘50s diner uniform is available.

All kinds of people visit The Zoo at some point during day: Teens and college-age customers frequent the place at night and on the weekends; in the afternoons there’s a heavy influx of middle-aged customers on a break between hitting the local antique shops. On Fridays and Saturday nights, tables are filled with a mix of ages and interests, and the crowd can be fascinating to check out.

But the coolest digs in the world couldn’t keep them coming back if the coffee weren’t good. The joe is worthy here, and so are the munchies. Besides the three house brews offered daily ($1), there is cappuccino, latte, mocha, cafe ole and Royale (all ranging in prices from $1.50 to $3.50).

Specialty shakes here combine espresso with fresh fruit and just about anything else a customer might request--from chocolate to peanut butter to pepperoni (yes, workers here swear they get orders for a banana and pepperoni shake).

Bakery goods to indulge in include rich cakes ($2 to $3.25 a slice), muffins ($1.25), and scones with fresh berries ($1.25). If your stomach is growling for something more, try the focaccia stuffed with veggies and cheese, which comes with cold pasta salad, a drink and a brownie or cookie for $4.50 and is served any time.

At month’s end The Zoo will offer one more reason to visit: live entertainment throughout the week, mostly small bands and ensembles performing jazz, swing and blues.

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Still the best as it celebrates its one-year anniversary tonight, Disco 2000--Orange County’s first weekly ‘70s nightclub--will give away groovy party favors such as mirrored ball necklaces, D-2000 music tapes, stickers, VIP passes and more. As always, wells, wine and drafts will go for 50 cents until 10 p.m., and the cover is $5 all night. Head to Disco 2000’s home at Club 5902, 5902 Warner Ave., Huntington Beach.

THE ZOO, 107 S. Glassell, Orange. (714) 744-8236.

* Open Sunday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Monday 7 a.m. to noon, Tuesday through Thursday 7 a.m. to midnight, Friday 7 a.m. to 1 a.m., and Saturday 9 a.m. to 1 a.m.

* No cover.