Citrus Becomes a Sweeter Deal

Michel Richard’s Citrus is almost always a treat--especially if you sit on the patio, under the umbrellas with a view of the glass-walled kitchen. Citrus’ formal dining room was never as much fun--it felt as if you’d been banished to the children’s room while the grown-ups got to party outside. Richard must have realized this--he just divided his restaurant in two. The patio is the same; the dining room is now the Bar Bistro: Citrus on a budget.

The modifications are a little clumsy--a bunch of plants, chosen for tallness, it seems, press against the glass partition that separates the bistro from the main restaurant. Menus and black-and-white French posters are tacked on the walls. The place feels more like an add-on rec room than a French bistro.

But you should really come here for the cooking, not the atmosphere. A crisp-crusted gratin of mashed potatoes conceals tender pieces of oxtail and costs just $9.50; for $13.50, you can get a piece of sauteed sea bass on a bed of good, garlicky lentils (compare this to the striped bass with white beans on the Citrus menu for $25). The roasted chicken could be a bit less bland, but a whole, small bird with fries costs just $10. Sure, the preparations tend to be more complex on the patio side, but two people could eat dinner with a half bottle of wine and a shared dessert for about $30. Not bad.