Spring Ahead

We may talk all year about eating light, but when spring comes, we take it seriously. Down with the deep, hearty stews and soups of winter. We’re ready for quickly cooked, brightly flavored dishes.

Lamb is often a popular spring selection, but in keeping with the lightness theme, I prefer fresh fish, especially salmon, which is easily and quickly cooked. With just minimal enhancement, the salmon here is given Asian overtones, both in the glaze and in the scorched onions in the accompanying crisp, almost salad-like stir-fry of fennel, sugar snap peas and red pepper. Steamed rice would complete the main course.

For dessert, a citrus mousse garnished with fresh raspberries and sauced with pureed raspberries just bursting with flavor and color captures the mood of the season.

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Here, salmon fillets are coated with a sweet ginger glaze that complements them perfectly. To quickly mince fresh ginger, cut it into one-inch squares and remove the peel. Then drop the cubes one by one into a running food processor. Let the processor run until all the little flecks of ginger have stopped flinging around the work bowl.

GINGER-GLAZED SALMON FILLETS

1 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger root

1 1/2 tablespoons honey

2 tablespoons hoisin sauce

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

1/4 teaspoon salt

6 (6-ounce) salmon fillets, all same thickness, rinsed, patted dry with paper towels

Combine ginger, honey, hoisin sauce, mustard, lemon juice and salt in small glass dish. Can be mixed up to 1 day ahead and refrigerated, covered airtight.

Arrange fillets on foil-lined baking sheet. Coat fillets with glaze, dividing evenly. Can be done several hours ahead and refrigerated.

Bake at 450 degrees until almost cooked, about 8 minutes for 1 1/4-inch thickness. Broil about 5 inches from heat source until glaze sizzles, about 1 minute. Serve hot or at room temperature. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

294 calories; 755 mg sodium; 71 mg cholesterol; 11 grams fat; 7 grams carbohydrates; 40 grams protein; 0.14 gram fiber.

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As with all stir-fries, this one must be cooked at the last minute so the vegetables stay crisp.

STIR-FRY OF FENNEL, SUGAR SNAP PEAS AND RED PEPPERS WITH SCORCHED RED ONION

2 teaspoons peanut oil

2 tablespoons sesame oil

1 large red onion, cut into thin strips

2 large trimmed fennel bulbs, cut into thin strips

2 medium sweet red peppers, cut into thin strips

3/4 pound sugar snap peas, stem-end trimmed

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

Freshly ground pepper

1/4 cup orange juice

2 teaspoons seasoned rice vinegar

Heat peanut and sesame oils in 12-inch non-stick wok or skillet over high heat. When very hot, add red onion. Cook, stirring often, until onion is scorched on edges, about 2 minutes. Add fennel. Cook 2 more minutes, stirring often. Add sweet red peppers, peas, salt and pepper to taste. Stir well to combine.

Cook until peas are heated through but still crispy, about 1 minute. Stir in orange juice and vinegar. As soon as mixture is hot, about 10 seconds, remove from heat. Adjust seasonings to taste. Serve hot. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

108 calories; 609 mg sodium; trace cholesterol; 6 grams fat; 12 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 1.75 grams fiber.

CITRUS MOUSSE WITH RASPBERRY SAUCE

2 (8-ounce) containers low-fat lemon yogurt

Zest 1 lemon, removed with fine grater

1/2 cup fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons fresh orange juice

1 envelope unflavored gelatin

2 large egg yolks

1/2 cup sugar

4 large egg whites

1 (10-ounce) package frozen raspberries, pureed and strained

1/2 pint fresh raspberries

Put strainer over medium bowl and line with coffee filter. Put yogurt in filter and drain about 2 hours, refrigerated.

Combine zest and lemon and orange juices in 1 1/2-cup work bowl. Sprinkle gelatin over. Let stand until softened.

In top of double boiler off heat, beat egg yolks and 1/4 cup sugar until thick and light-colored. Place pan over--but not touching--gently simmering water. Cook just until heated through and smooth, stirring constantly. Add gelatin mixture, stirring until completely dissolved. Refrigerate until mixture begins to thicken but has not gelled, stirring often, about 10 minutes.

Whip egg whites with electric mixer at medium speed until foamy. Continue beating while slowly adding remaining sugar by tablespoon. Beat until whites hold soft, moist peaks. Fold into lemon mixture.

Gently fold in drained yogurt. There should be about 1 1/2 cups. Spoon mousse into 6 clear goblets. Use paper towels to clean smears. Cover each tightly with plastic wrap. Refrigerate at least 4 hours or overnight. To serve, spoon pureed raspberries over and garnish with fresh raspberries. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

245 calories; 81 mg sodium; 94 mg cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 49 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 1.91 grams fiber.