<i> Abbondanza </i> in Long Beach

“To share a more passionate and satisfying experience with a group of friends, you’d pretty much have to get naked,” read the ad for Dominick’s East Village in Long Beach. How could I resist? As we arrived, an obviously sated trio made their way down the steps. “We shouldn’t have ordered three portions,” one man groaned. Two of them, I couldn’t help noticing, were toting doggie bags large enough to actually transport a canine. Packed and ready to go, these bona-fide shopping bags sat on table after table as diners lingered over their espresso, listening to nostalgic southern Italian songs from a courtly older gentleman’s accordion.

The family-style retro-Italian-American restaurant is the latest dining concept from University Restaurant Group, which also owns Water Grill downtown and four other local restaurants. The site is that of the group’s 555 East steakhouse, which closed briefly for renovations and reopened on April 25-- ta dum! --in a Little Italy guise with white-clothed tables, dark wood paneling and period photos of Old Blue Eyes, la Sophia, Lollobrigida and Anna Magnani.

To say that Dominick’s serves expansively large portions is quite possibly an understatement. Tables are outfitted with Lazy Susans, the better to pass those big platters of spaghetti with meatballs, lasagna and osso buco. “Portions are very large,” the waitress warns. We managed the mixed antipasto of cold cuts, jumbo stuffed artichoke and baked clams casino, but began to flag halfway through our hefty half-order of al dente spaghetti. Not to mention the equally large half-order of overcooked chicken with rosemary or the scampi with capers and lemon.

With wine, tax and tip, our bill came to over $40 a person (but then we had all that take-home). Family-style dinners for eight or more are the best deals: $18.95 per person includes your choice of two dishes from each menu category.

* Dominick’s East Village, 555 E. Ocean Blvd. (at Linden), Long Beach. (310) 437-0626. Pasta and entrees $9.50 to $23.95. Family-style dinners for eight or more $18.95 per person.