Chinese Noodles: Thrown, Fried, Eaten With Relish

I will never forget the flavor of Mr. Chang’s red-cooked beef noodles. There were hundreds of food stalls in Taipei that specialized in noodles, but none was more famous than Mr. Chang’s, a tiny place not far from the university where I attended classes in Mandarin Studies.

Chang always stood at the back counter, where a huge caldron of beef slowly cooked in a fragrant braising liquid, filling the small shop with the pungent odor of cinnamon, star anise and soy sauce. Next to the beef pot sat another large pot filled with boiling water for cooking the noodles.

As each order came in, Chang would deftly grab a handful of fresh noodles and drop them into the boiling water, where they cooked in minutes. Using a bamboo colander, he would quickly strain them into a deep, earthenware bowl and ladle a generous portion of the red-cooked beef with its fragrant sauce on top. The final touch was a handful of leafy vegetables that cooked instantly in the hot broth. And for the mere price of 75 cents, it was a delicious and filling meal.

Noodles, as I was to learn during my three-year sojourn in Asia, are an extraordinarily versatile food and they are not just enjoyed in soups. They are equally relished pan-fried, soft-fried and deep-fried. They are served as a snack, side dish or as a filling meal by themselves.

*

In northern China, where wheat rather than rice is the main grain, flour-and-water noodles are a daily staple. In the south, noodles made of flour, egg and water are served primarily as dim sum with other foods, but they also appear on tables as a meal in themselves. In all parts of China, they are eaten for breakfast, lunch or dinner and snacks.

Traditionally, in northern China noodles were hand-thrown, and this art is still practiced in some restaurants in China, Hong Kong and the United States. For hand-thrown noodles, a relaxed flour-and-water dough is repeatedly stretched and wrapped in a braid-like shape until the dough magically divides into thousands of fine strands. Hand-thrown noodles are wonderfully delicate and have a silky texture. They may be round, flat or hollow, like macaroni.

Flour, egg and water noodles, which are more popular in southern and eastern China, generally are made by machine, and the variety of shapes and sizes is endless. But other ingredients are used to make Chinese noodles too.

*

There are noodles made of rice powder or flour--known as mifen , rice vermicelli and rice sticks--which can be thin or thick. Very thin rice sticks are stir-fried or used as garnishes, in soups or deep-fried to golden nests for stir-fried dishes.

Bean threads or cellophane noodles-- fen si-- are made from the starch of mung or green beans. The translucent noodles are very high in protein. Once cooked, they turn transparent and acquire a smooth, gelatinous texture. Bean threads can be stir-fried, braised or served as beds for salads and cold platters. Like rice noodles, they may also be deep-fried and used as a crisp nest for stir-fried dishes.

Noodles are even made of tofu. Bean curd noodles may be cooked and tossed in a dressing with other shredded vegetables for a light salad. Many Asian markets in this country carry fresh tofu noodles.

*

In many dishes, when the Chinese varieties are unavailable, Italian noodles such as spaghettini, vermicelli, fettuccine and linguine may be substituted.

Noodles are also popular in China for their nutritional appeal, in addition to being an inexpensive, high-carbohydrate fuel food. What’s more, they symbolize longevity, and Chinese custom dictates that they be made long so that diners may attain longevity and their hair will turn as snowy-white as the noodle.

CRISP-FRIED VEGETARIAN NOODLES 1/2 pound thin egg noodles, such as spaghettini or vermicelli Sesame oil 1 1/2 cups reduced sodium chicken broth 3 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce 2 tablespoons rice wine or sake 1 1/2 teaspoons sugar 2 tablespoons cornstarch 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 1/2 tablespoons minced garlic 1 1/2 tablespoons minced ginger root 10 dried Chinese black mushrooms, softened in hot water 20 minutes, drained, stems discarded, caps cut into fine julienne strips 3 cups finely julienned leeks 2 cups shredded carrots 1 1/2 tablespoons rice wine or sake 4 cups bean sprouts, rinsed and drained

Heat 1 gallon water in large pan until boiling. Add noodles and cook until just tender, about 5 minutes. Drain. Toss with 1 teaspoon sesame oil. Immediately transfer noodles to round cake pan or pie plate. Press top to level noodles and let cool.

Combine broth, soy sauce, rice wine, sugar, 1 teaspoon sesame oil and cornstarch in bowl. Blend well. Heat well-seasoned wok or skillet until very hot. Add 1 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil and heat until nearly smoking. Invert noodle cake into pan and cook until deep-golden brown, swirling pan from time to time to keep cake from sticking. Flip noodle cake over and brown other side. Transfer noodles to heat-proof serving platter and keep warm in oven at 200 degrees.

Reheat pan. Add remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil and heat until very hot. Add garlic and ginger root. Stir-fry about 10 seconds, until fragrant. Add mushrooms, leeks and carrots. Stir-fry over high heat about 1 minute. Add rice wine and cook 1 minute. Then add sauce mixture. Bring to boil. Add bean sprouts and cook, stirring continuously to prevent lumps, until sauce is thickened. Spoon vegetables over fried noodle cake and serve immediately. Makes 6 servings.

SPICY BEEF NOODLES 2 pounds chuck or beef stew meat, fat removed 1/2 cup soy sauce 1 1/2 tablespoons sweet bean sauce or hoisin sauce 1 teaspoon anise seed 1 cinnamon stick Zest 1 orange, removed in thin strips with vegetable peeler 6 cups water 1 teaspoon vegetable oil 3 tablespoons minced green onions 1 1/2 tablespoons minced garlic 1 1/2 tablespoons minced ginger root 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes 1/4 pound thin egg noodles, such as vermicelli 1 quart reduced sodium chicken broth 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 1/2 teaspoons sesame oil 1/2 pound fresh spinach, stems removed, rinsed thoroughly and drained 3 tablespoons minced green onions, green part only

Use sharp knife to cut beef into 1 1/2-inch cubes. Combine soy sauce, bean sauce, anise seed, cinnamon stick, orange zest and water in bowl and set aside.

Heat casserole or heavy pan. Add vegetable oil and heat until hot. Add green onions, garlic, ginger root and crushed red pepper flakes. Stir-fry until fragrant, about 10 seconds. Add reserved soy sauce mixture and bring to boil. Add meat cubes and return to boil. Reduce heat to low. Cover and simmer, skimming surface to remove any impurities and fat, until beef is very tender, 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Remove cinnamon stick.

Meanwhile, bring 1 gallon water in large pan to boil. Add noodles and cook until tender, about 4 minutes. Drain. Combine chicken broth, salt and sesame oil in large pan and bring to boil. Add spinach and green onions. Remove from heat.

Portion noodles into individual serving bowls. Ladle spinach and broth over noodles, then spoon beef and about 1/3 cup cooking liquid over each portion. Serve immediately. Makes 6 servings.

SINGAPORE FRIED RICE NOODLES 1 1/2 pounds Chinese barbecued pork or cooked pork 1/2 pound medium shrimp, peeled and deveined 2 tablespoons rice wine or sake 1 teaspoon minced ginger root 1/2 teaspoon sesame oil 3 tablespoons reduced sodium chicken broth 1 tablespoon soy sauce 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon sugar 2 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 1/2 tablespoons curry powder 2 cups finely shredded leeks 3 cups bean sprouts, rinsed and drained 7 ounces very thin dried rice stick noodles or rice vermicelli, softened in cold water to cover 30 minutes and drained

Cut pork into thin slices with sharp knife or cleaver, about 1/6-inch thick, then cut into julienne shreds about 2 inches long. Set aside.

Slice shrimp in half down back, removing dark vein. Rinse and drain. Place pork and shrimp in bowl. Add rice wine, ginger root and sesame oil. Toss to coat. Cover with plastic wrap. Let stand at room temperature 20 minutes.

In bowl combine broth, soy sauce, salt and sugar and set aside.

Heat wok or skillet. Add 1 tablespoon vegetable oil and heat until hot. Add shrimp and stir-fry, stirring, over high heat until pink, about 2 minutes. Remove with handled strainer or slotted spoon and place on paper towels to drain. Wipe pan.

Reheat pan. Add remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons corn oil and heat until very hot. Add curry powder and stir-fry about 10 seconds until fragrant. Add leeks and stir-fry over high heat about 1 1/2 minutes. Add bean sprouts and cook, tossing lightly, 20 seconds. Add pork, shrimp, rice noodles and broth mixture and carefully toss and cook 15 to 20 seconds until noodles are heated through. Transfer to serving dish and serve immediately. Makes 6 servings.

SPICY CELLOPHANE NOODLES 3/4 pound ground turkey 1 tablespoon soy sauce 2 teaspoons rice wine or sake Sesame oil 2 cups reduced sodium chicken broth 2 tablespoons soy sauce 1 1/2 tablespoons rice wine or sake 1 teaspoon sugar 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 3 tablespoons minced green onions 1 1/2 tablespoons minced ginger root 1 tablespoon minced garlic 1 teaspoon hot chile paste or crushed red chile peppers 1/4 pound cellophane noodles (or bean threads), softened in hot water to cover 20 minutes and drained 2 tablespoons minced green onions, green part only

Lightly chop ground turkey with sharp knife or cleaver until fluffy. Place in bowl along with soy sauce, rice wine and 1 teaspoon sesame oil. Stir to mix. Cover with plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature 20 minutes.

To prepare sauce, in bowl combine broth, soy sauce, rice wine, sugar and 1 teaspoon sesame oil and set aside.

Heat wok or skillet. Add 1/2 tablespoon vegetable oil and heat until hot. Add ground turkey and cook, mashing and breaking up, until turkey loses raw color. Remove meat with handled strainer or slotted spoon to drain on paper towels. Clean out pan.

Reheat pan. Add remaining 1/2 tablespoon oil and heat until hot. Add green onions, ginger root, garlic and hot chile paste and stir-fry 10 seconds, until fragrant. Stir in sauce mixture, cellophane noodles and cooked meat and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook until almost all liquid has evaporated. Transfer mixture to serving bowl and sprinkle with minced green onions. Serve immediately. Makes 6 servings.