An Abundant Assortment of Seafood

Lobster Thermidor used to be fairly common at Continental restaurants. This rich dish of lobster mixed with a creamy sauce of white wine, shallots, tarragon and mustard and topped with Parmesan was quite popular until nearly everybody realized that lobster is so good it doesn’t need all that other stuff. It can still be found occasionally, but I’d never seen it offered at a Mexican restaurant until I went to Diana’s in Gardena.

That particular memory lane menu item isn’t the only unusual thing about Diana’s. To begin with, the decor is uncommonly elegant for a South Bay Mexican restaurant. Diana’s took over the location from a Chinese restaurant and did some remodeling, resulting in two comforting rooms. The larger room features rustic chandeliers, oil paintings and booths; the smaller one has modern chandeliers and tables with plush chairs. The smooth service is overseen by manager Sylvia Rivera.

This is the flagship of a small Los Angeles-area chain of restaurants called Diana’s. It all started in Gardena during the late 1960s when Samuel and Hortensia Magana opened a small market named after their daughter. The place became popular for the take-out menudo and carnitas it offered on weekends and led to a modest restaurant in Carson. Two years ago, the Maganas moved up a step with this ambitious Diana’s on Western Avenue.

Although the restaurant offers familiar Mexican dishes such as burritos and tacos, seafood rules here. There are 11 preparations of shrimp alone, ranging from shrimp soup ($8.95) to camarones Costa Azul ($11.95): shrimp stuffed with two cheeses, wrapped in bacon and grilled.

For a festive meal, four people can split the parrillada de mariscos ($47), a massive platter of grilled lobster, abalone, octopus, shrimp and fried halibut. If you don’t want seafood, consider the mole poblano ($8.95): chicken in a complex red-brown sauce made with chocolate, bananas, peanuts, peppers, garlic and mild ancho peppers.

As for the Thermidor, just remember it fondly.

Diana’s is at 15449 S. Western Ave., Gardena. (310) 538-1485. Open Sunday through Thursday 7 a.m. to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday 7 a.m. to 11 p.m.