Drive-Up Masa

Remember those little photo-developing kiosks with drive-up windows in supermarket parking lots--the ones that used to house Fotomat stores? Well, a few have been recycled into tamale shops operated by a local company called Tamales Express.

A drive-up tamale stand may seem like a gimmicky L.A. concept, but there’s more to the company than just a cute idea. In a small, stainless-steel-lined factory in West Covina, Tamales Express makes tamales fresh daily, the same way a traditional Mexican cook would prepare them at home.

The cooks first stone-grind corn in a small mill--a time-honored process that preserves the grain’s delicate flavors. They use the same mill to grind soaked dry chiles for their chile sauce. Meanwhile, lean beef and pork are being cooked; both meat and broth will be used. “We add this broth to the masa; that gives it a meatier taste,” explains Tamale Express’ owner, Mike Uribe.

Uribe’s wife, Lenore, heads up an abbreviated production line of three women who hand-form all the tamales. In coordinated rhythm, one woman spreads masa on corn husks, another adds filling and closes the husk and the third rolls the husk in parchment paper, tucking in the ends to form a neat bundle.

The Uribes’ tamales gained a following at a Mexican deli they used to own in East L.A. When they were first branching out, they sold their tamales from pushcarts. “The carts were inspected by the Health Department and everything,” says Uribe, “but many people are skittish about buying from a cart. Moving into the Fotomat shops really improved our image and sales.”

The original tamale recipe came from Lenore’s mother. “We thought hers were always fatter and juicer than most,” Uribe recalls. “Also, her masa is fluffy.” Over the years the tamales have changed somewhat. They still have that trademark light texture, but where Lenore’s mother used chile pequin and guajillo, deemed too spicy for many of the Uribe’s customers, the Uribes use milder New Mexico chiles. Customers who want a hotter product can add salsa.

Like all good cooks, the Uribes give their food a unique twist. Bits of jalapeno discreetly shot through their chicken-tomatillo tamales give them the subtlest glow of heat. Sweet corn tamales get their texture from whole corn kernels suspended in a dough so moist it quivers at the touch of a fork. Beef or pork chunks, coated with dusky-tasting chile sauce, fill the meat tamales. And there are also cheese-green chile tamales, pineapple-raisin tamales and the newest, an olive oil-based tamale with a vegetarian filling. (These last are available only at the factory.)

Tamales are fiesta food and Sunday supper food. Besides buying the tamales at the kiosks, people order dozens from the factory for Super Bowl parties and other affairs. During the holidays, the Uribes work almost around the clock, preparing and selling hundreds of dozens of tamales, most of which are ordered in advance.

If drive-up tamale stands are on their way to becoming an L.A. institution, the Uribes will have a head start. After January they plan to add outlets--two in Long Beach, another in Victorville and perhaps, eventually, even more.

* Tamales Express, Store #1 331 N. Vincent Ave., Covina (in Ralph’s parking lot), (818) 337-0063. Open Monday to Friday 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., Saturday and Sunday 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.

* Store #2 2223 Huntington Drive, Duarte, (818) 359-4724. Open 10 to 5 daily.

* Factory (orders by appointment only), 525 N. Howard Ave. Covina, (818) 332-0235.