Made in the Shade

One of summer’s greatest pleasures is dining alfresco with family and friends. The trick, of course, is to pull it off without having a nervous breakdown. That means starting with a tempting menu, the simpler, the better. Here, we’ve selected a casual buffet from cookbook author Anna Thomas’ latest, “The New Vegetarian Epicure,” published by Alfred A. Knopf. Light and lean--with a hint of decadence for dessert--every dish can be prepared in advance and served leisurely at room temperature. What’s more, many recipes--roasted green beans with tomato dressing, sage-seasoned white beans and marinated grilled eggplant--make the most of fresh herbs and vegetables you may be growing in your own garden. A frittata of chard and chopped parsley and a pasta tossed with fruity olive oil and basil, oregano and thyme will satisfy larger appetites. For nibblers, there’s sun-dried tomato pesto to spread on crackers or bread. The more self-indulgent will appreciate ripe strawberries dipped in honey-sweetened mascarpone. So forget slaving over a hot grill. With a meal this easy, you’ll feel like a guest at your own party.

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The following recipes, part of a menu for a simple summer buffet outdoors, are excerpted from “The New Vegetarian Epicure: Menus--With 325 All-New Recipes--for Family and Friends,” written by Anna Thomas of Ojai and published last month by Alfred A. Knopf. Most of these dishes can be prepared in advance and may be served hot or warm. Unless otherwise noted, all serve 6 to 8 people or more in a buffet.

TUSCAN WHITE BEANS WITH GARLIC AND SAGE

1 pound small white beans

handful fresh sage leaves, or 2 tablespoons dried whole-leaf sage

1 head garlic, separated and peeled

3-4 tablespoons green olive oil

salt and pepper

Soak beans in cool water for a few hours or overnight. Drain beans and put in large, shallow skillet, with enough fresh water to cover by an inch. Add sage leaves, garlic cloves and 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Bring water to boil, then lower heat to simmer.

Allow beans to simmer until tender. Cooking time will vary depending on freshness. Do not stir more than two or three times, and then only gently with wooden spoon. If water evaporates, carefully add more.

Shortly before beans are done, when they are just becoming tender, add about 2 teaspoons of salt. When they are soft, and cooking water has become a savory broth, pour beans and broth into large shallow bowl. Drizzle with 2-3 tablespoons olive oil, grind on black pepper and serve.

ROASTED GREEN BEAN SALAD

2 pounds thin, tender green beans

1 head garlic, separated and peeled

3 tablespoons green olive oil

salt and pepper

2 large, ripe red tomatoes

balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons fresh basil, chopped

Wash and trim green beans, and separate and peel cloves of garlic. Reserve 1 small clove of garlic and toss remaining garlic and beans in bowl with 1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil, salt to taste and a few grinds of black pepper. Spread beans evenly over 2 baking sheets and roast at 400 degrees for about 40 minutes. Stir and turn beans at least once.

Roasting time will vary with size of beans. They are done when they have wrinkled and blistered and smell toasty.

While beans are roasting, peel tomatoes and chop, reserving juice. Mince reserved clove of garlic. Combine tomatoes, juice, garlic, remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil, balsamic vinegar, salt and pepper, and basil. Crush to blend flavors.

When beans are ready, transfer to large shallow bowl and add tomato dressing. Serve hot, warm or at room temperature.

PASTA WITH OLIVE OIL AND FRESH HERBS

1/2 cup fresh basil, chopped

1/2 cup flat-leaf Italian parsley, chopped

1 tablespoon fresh oregano, chopped

1 tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped

1/4 cup green olive oil

salt and pepper

1 pound spaghetti or linguine

1 small clove garlic, minced, optional

Parmesan cheese and toasted pine nuts, or sliver of kalamata olives and red pepper flakes, optional

Combine chopped fresh herbs in large ceramic bowl with olive oil and salt and pepper. Add minced garlic to herbs if desired. Cook pasta in boiling salted water until al dente, then drain and immediately toss with herbs and oil. Correct seasoning if needed, and serve.

This is delicious with grated Parmesan cheese and a few toasted pine nuts scattered over it. It’s also nice with slivers of kalamata olives and red pepper flakes.

CHARD AND PARSLEY FRITTATA

1 medium onion (about a cup, chopped)

1 clove garlic

1 large potato

1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil

1 teaspoon salt

8-9 eggs

4 tablespoons Parmesan cheese

1 cup flat-leaf Italian parsley, chopped (packed)

pepper

2 1/2 cups Swiss chard, chopped (packed)

1 teaspoon cider vinegar

Chop onion, mince garlic and scrub potato and cut it into 1/4-inch dice. Heat olive oil in 12-inch skillet, preferably a non-stick type. Saute onion and garlic for a few minutes, then add potato and 1/2 teaspoon of salt and continue cooking over medium heat, stirring often, for about 10 minutes. Vegetables will start to brown.

Meanwhile, beat eggs with Parmesan cheese, parsley, remaining 1/2 teaspoon of salt and some pepper and set aside. Add chopped chard to pan, sprinkle with cider vinegar and toss with other vegetables until thoroughly wilted.

Pour egg mixture into vegetable mixture and give it a quick stir to make sure everything is evenly distributed. Adjust flame until very low, cover pan and let frittata cook for 10-15 minutes or until eggs are completely set.

Loosen frittata with spatula until it slides freely in the pan, then invert onto flat lid or platter and slide back into pan to brown on other side, just a minute or two. Turn it out onto platter; cut into wedges and serve warm or cool.

Pasta with Olive Oil and Fresh Herbs

3 large purple eggplants (about 3 1/2 pounds)

salt and pepper

2 cloves garlic

1/4 cup olive oil

1/4 cup balsamic vinegar

1/2 large red onion, very thinly sliced

3 tablespoons fresh basil, slivered

Wash eggplants and cut crosswise in 1/2-inch slices. Salt slices lightly on both sides and leave on glass platter or tray for up to 1 hour to release their excess water. Pat slices dry between paper towels, squeezing gently.

Mince or press garlic cloves and stir into olive oil. Brush eggplant slices ightly on both sides with garlic oil and grill over hot coals until charred in spots and tender throughout.

In large glass or ceramic dish, arrange half the eggplant slices close together in one layer. Prick them with a fork, sprinkle them with about half the balsamic vinegar, and salt and pepper them lightly. Scatter half the onion slices and half the slivered basil over them. Repeat with remaining eggplant and other ingredients.

Cover dish tightly with plastic wrap and leave at room temperature or a couple of hours or in refrigerator if longer.

Serve cool or at room temperature as first course or part of buffet.

SUN-DRIED TOMATO PESTO

3 ounces sun-dried tomatoes (about 1 1/4 cups rehydrated)

1/4 cup pine nuts

1/4 cup walnut pieces

1/4 cup green olive oil

1/2 cup fresh basil, chopped

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons reserved water from soaking tomatoes, or as needed

1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

pinch of tarragon

salt and pepper

Put dried tomatoes in small pot with enough water to cover, bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer for a minute, then remove from heat and leave them to soak for about an hour. Drain tomatoes, reserving the water.

If you want the taste of garlic in this pesto, peel a couple of garlic cloves, bruise them slightly and leave then in olive oil for about 30 minutes before using, then discard.

Combine tomatoes, nuts, olive oil, basil and balsamic vinegar in food processor and process for a few seconds at a time until it is thick, coarsely textured pulp. Taste, correct seasoning if needed, and moisten mixture with reserved tomato water if it seems too thick.

Serve at room temperature with plain crackers or French bread.

Makes about 2 cups.

HONEY-SWEETENED MASCARPONE

2 cups mascarpone

6-8 tablespoons honey

Allow mascarpone to warm to room temperature, then stir gently with whisk until softened. Drizzle in honey and continue whisking slowly until smooth.

Serve sweetened mascarpone in small portions alongside summer fruits such as berries, sliced peaches or figs.

Makes about 2 1/2 cups.

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MENU

Roasted Green Bean salad

Tuscan White Beans with Garlic and Sage

Olives and Feta Cheese With Oregano

Pasta with Olive Oil and Fresh Herbs

Fresh-Chopped Tomatoes With Basil

Chard and Parsley Frittata

Marinated Grilled Eggplant

Rosemary Focaccia

Sun-Dried Tomato Pesto

Summer Fruits With Honey-Sweetened Mascarpone

Assorted Biscotti

* Recipes from “The New Vegetarian Epicure: Menus--With 325 All-New Recipes--for Family and Friends, Copyright 1996 by Anna Thomas; reprinted by permission of Alfred A. Knopf Inc.

Tabletop stylist: Deborah Parsons, assistant tabletop stylists: Patricia Donahue and Larry Stephenson; food stylist: Karen Gillingham; assistant food stylist: Stormie Ingram-Shank; hair and makeup: Garen Tolkin/Cloutier; location: courtesy of Lynette and Roy McNeill.