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The Fabulous Fritter

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SPECIAL TO THE TIMES; Carroll is the author of the "No Cholesterol (No Kidding!) Cookbook" (Rodale Press, 1991)

Down the street from my apartment in Paris was a fritter stand run by three Algerian men. As you passed by you could smell the hot oil, the sweet pastry and the dusting of sugar that went into the delicious doughnut-like pastry they made.

I knew the health hazards of eating fritters every day, but occasionally I allowed myself one beignet as a treat. It was melt-in-your-mouth stuff and lifted my spirits even on rainy April afternoons.

Fritters are made in many parts of Europe and Asia. In this country, fritter batters are often filled with vegetables such as corn or carrots. Sometimes we pack fritters with fruit or serve them as breakfast food with maple syrup or honey. Any way we make them, fritters are satisfying as an occasional treat.

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Everyone, even the most die-hard nutrition buff, craves the occasional fried and fatty food. Either it’s a sneak attack on a fast-food drive-in or an at-home splurge. When I can’t eat another morsel of tofu or low-fat whatever, I forgo the doughnuts and make the leanest version of vegetable fritters I can.

Using peanut oil helps make my fritters reasonably healthful. Peanut oil can be heated hotter than any other oil, which is why it is favored by Asian cooks for tempura and egg rolls. The high heat tolerance allows the oil to stay outside the food rather than be absorbed by it. Fritters cook in seconds rather than minutes, which leaves them less greasy. I also drain them on paper towels after cooking to remove as much fat as possible.

My homemade fritters are still borderline as everyday eating, but they satisfy my occasional high-fat, fast-food cravings pretty well. And they’re exceptionally easy and fun to make.

CHIVE AND CARROT FRITTERS (30-MINUTES OR LESS)

1 cup flour

2 tablespoons minced chives

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

1/2 teaspoon dried parsley

1/2 teaspoon salt

3 cups coarsely grated carrots

3/4 cup water or more if needed

Peanut oil

Mix together flour, chives, baking powder, thyme, parsley, salt and carrots. Gradually add enough water to form thick batter.

Heat 1 inch peanut oil in deep skillet over medium-high heat. Drop batter by tablespoons into hot oil and cook until golden, about 30 seconds, turning once. Drain on paper towels. Serve warm.

6 servings. Each serving:

96 calories; 350 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 19 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 0.50 gram fiber.

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SWEET POTATOES FRITTERS

2 eggs

3 egg whites

2 large sweet potatoes, peeled and coarsely grated

2 tablespoons flour

2 tablespoons plain nonfat yogurt

2 tablespoons grated onion

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

Peanut oil

Lightly beat eggs and egg whites. Mix together sweet potatoes, flour, yogurt, onion, parsley and beaten eggs.

Heat 1 inch peanut oil in deep skillet over medium-high heat. Drop batter by tablespoons into hot oil and cook until golden, about 30 seconds, turning once. Drain on paper towels. Serve warm.

6 servings. Each serving:

113 calories; 54 mg sodium; 71 mg cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 17 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 0.54 gram fiber.

AMY’S CORN FRITTERS

2 1/2 cups corn kernels

2 eggs, separated

1 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

1 teaspoon sugar or honey

2 to 5 tablespoons flour

Peanut oil

Combine corn, egg yolks, salt, pepper, sugar and 2 tablespoons flour in small bowl. Beat egg whites until stiff and fold into batter. Add enough flour to create thick dough.

Heat 1 inch peanut oil in deep skillet over medium-high heat. Drop batter by tablespoons into hot oil and cook until golden, about 30 seconds, turning once. Drain on paper towels. Serve warm.

6 to 8 servings. Each of 8 servings:

40 calories; 311 mg sodium; 53 mg cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 3 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0.01 gram fiber.

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