Beyond the Martinia

Martinis are mundane. Micro-brews are boring. Surely there must be something more exciting, something less self-consciously hip and retro, to drink as we ring out ’97. The following cocktails are all shaken to the beat of a different drummer:

When it comes to exotic cocktails, it would be tough to beat the Chiew at Typhoon at Santa Monica Airport. Owner Brian Vidor spent a lot of time in Asia, where he got the inspiration for his barrel-sized glass jar of vodka filled with oddities, from deer antler and cinnamon bark to cordyceps, a mushroom that grows on the head of a caterpillar. Shots are available, but go for the martini serving, which comes with a dried sea dragon (think sea horse without the curl) resting on top of the glass. This ruby-colored drink has spicy flavors that call to mind the distinctive, slightly medicinal taste of Chinese tonics.

Looking for a libation with a message? At 360, the new restaurant and lounge high above Sunset and Vine, bartender Annie pours an Adios M--- F---. Like a Long Island iced tea, this drink throws together all the white liquors, and then tosses in triple sec, sweet and sour mix, blue curacao and a shot of beer. Shake and pour over ice . . . and say adios.

Crustacean in Beverly Hills with its Pan-Asian cuisine features plenty of sake, but they’ve also crafted some creative cocktails. Most popular is the intensely fruity Maui Paui, a deep red blend of peach and raspberry vodkas, sloe gin and pineapple juice, served in a martini glass with slice of orange.

The Four Seasons Hotel in L.A. is home to one of the town’s hottest bars with lots of star power. The Copper Illusion takes its name from the drink’s metallic hue, due to a splash of Canton, a ginger-laced liqueur, and cognac, both of which are added to a shot of Bombay Sapphire gin in an improbably smooth blend.

Pomegranate juice defines the flavor and color of the Rossini Rubino at Remi. The ruby-colored Middle Eastern variation on the Kir Royale substitutes the tart juice of the pomegranate for cassis in this lovely champagne cocktail.

Most unusual of all must be Essig, a German-made vinegar-based aperitif served at Rockenwagner. It’s certainly the smallest cocktail in town: a mere thimbleful in an impossibly slender glass. There are half a dozen flavors, from eucalyptus honey to vanilla. These tart, low-alcohol beverages are said to stimulate the appetite and sensitize the taste buds.

Recent studies indicate that consumption of hard liquor is declining. We may be drinking less, but we seem to be drinking more frivolously than ever.