Barbecue la Malibu

A few days after purchasing her fourth restaurant (the Black Whale in Marina del Rey) and with a crowd of 20 friends about to arrive at her home in the Santa Monica Mountains for a barbecue, Gerri Gilliland is showing no signs of stress. Perhaps it is the setting.

Gilliland’s Rancho de Chiquita is at the end of 3 1/2 mountainous miles of hairpin turns and dangerously distracting views. From her patio, her neighbors’ homes look like matchbooks.

“Mountains are my medicine,” she says in the accent of her native Belfast, scanning the vista of ocean, canyons and orchards.

Six of the 40 acres owned by Gilliland with her husband and business partner, Theodore Lonsway, are fenced with terraced gardens, fruit and citrus orchards and an avocado grove. But the gardens are not what made the couple decide to buy the place.

It was the outdoor kitchen, complete with a pit barbecue designed by the former owner. The space is a tiled strip of functionality that includes a Mexican beehive-style wood-burning oven for breads, fish, casseroles, roasts and pizza; a hibachi that holds a wok or kettle for deep-frying; a sand-lined pit barbecue with a hinged, crank-style grill that can be raised or lowered to control the proximity of grilled items to the flame; and a gas-fired barbecue.

“When I saw that barbecue with the iron grill and crank handle,” she says, “I was sold. It’s the kind you see in restaurants that do Santa Maria barbecues.”

Gilliland has an affection for Santa Maria barbecue. It conjures up memories of trips to the Santa Ynez Valley, where she’s visited wineries, gone hiking and had what she remembers as the best barbecued steak in the United States at the Hitching Post in Buellton.

“Santa Maria barbecue is lots of good fresh meat, a variety of cuts, cooked over oak,” she says. “Steak, ribs, chicken, salmon. The flavor of oak is what makes it special to me. I prefer oak over mesquite.”

For her own barbecues, she uses oak but deviates from the traditional Santa Maria menu of grilled tri-tips and pinquito beans. Instead, she uses her own dry spice rub and basting sauce (also called mop) for meats and chicken. A honey-mustard glaze goes on grilled salmon, a special spicy sauce on baby back ribs.

At 4 p.m. the guests begin arriving. Hector Martinez, the chef at Jake & Annie’s, one of Gilliland’s three restaurants on Santa Monica’s Main Street (Lula and Gilliland’s are the other two), has started the pit fire and fried the corn fritter appetizers. Gary Allen, another co-worker of Gilliland, has trimmed the artichokes and portabello mushrooms in the ranch kitchen; they’ll be grilled at the last minute and served with dipping sauces as appetizers.

Gilliland is working the grill, periodically turning the chicken and steaks and checking on her guests. She moves around the yard and between the kitchen and outdoor barbecue area as easily as she laughs, snitching candied walnuts from the endive salad, shooing a golden retriever from the trash, answering the phone and greeting friends. Her brimmed hat from Mexico, a gift from her husband, fails to control her curtain of copper hair, and any squinting guest immediately gets a loaner hat from her collection.

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Bottles of Mexican beers, mineral waters and white wine (’94 Sanford Chardonnay and ’95 Gainey Sauvignon Blanc) are iced in a tub next to a table of wine glasses, tumblers and red wines.

Appetizers are set out at different locations. “I like people to wander,” she says. “We live very casually, and that’s my style, nothing sit-down.”

On an upper patio is an umbrella-covered picnic table holding a platter of marinated goat cheese with peppers and roasted garlic and a basket of miniature dill rolls. On a lower patio, larger-than-life hand-painted serving dishes from Mexico hold dozens of tiny corn fritters and a bowl of vinegary maple dipping sauce.

Other appetizers and side dishes include corn on the cob, grilled asparagus salad, grilled portabellos with remoulade, and Gilliland’s signature endive salad with candied walnuts and blue cheese in a dried cranberry-Port wine vinaigrette.

Among the desserts are a triple-layer devil’s-food cake and an apple pie with walnut streusel topping, served a la mode. The bowl for the vanilla ice cream is made of ice and embossed with fresh herbs, a craft idea she got from Myrtle Allen and her son Tim, owners of Ballymaloe House in County Cork, Ireland’s famous cooking school.

Most of the guests came to know Gilliland through her restaurants. One couple who work for the Getty Museum and Getty Trust are regulars at Gilliland’s restaurant and live in Venice. Another, author Charles Hauck, is a former student from her cooking classes. Actor Malcolm McDowell and wife, Kelly, are friends of her husband. Jazz musician Charlie Haden and wife Ruth arrive with son Josh, who is also a musician. Haden says his friendship with Gilliland started when he complimented her on the music she played in her restaurant.

“Then he handed me one of his CDs,” remembers Gilliland, “and said, ‘Play this.’ ”

Gilliland believes that music is key to a party. “It sets the right mood,” she says. “I like to mix styles and tempos and play it at the right level. I love jazz and Mexican music.” True to her word, Gilliland plays Haden’s latest CD with Pat Metheny and follows that with Quetzalcoatl, a Mexican group she discovered years ago.

Gilliland grew up in Belfast, the only daughter of Nora and Eddie Gilliland, owners of a grocery store. Her two brothers live nearby in Venice; her mother, a widow, still lives in Belfast.

“Irish people love to have a good time,” she says. “My parents always entertained. And my father could play anything on the piano by ear.”

Judging by this party, Gilliland’s parents did a good job in teaching their daughter the art of entertaining well.

POTATO-CORN FRITTERS WITH MAPLE DIPPING SAUCE (VEGETARIAN)

DIPPING SAUCE

1/2 cup maple syrup

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon cider vinegar

FRITTERS

1 baking potato, peeled and sliced 1-inch-thick

Oil

1 1/4 teaspoons salt

1/4 red bell pepper

1/4 green bell pepper

1 1/2 jalapen~os

1 ear corn

1/2 cup flour

1/2 cup yellow cornmeal

1/2 tablespoon baking powder

Pepper

1/2 bunch green onions, diced

1 egg

1/2 cup milk

DIPPING SAUCE

Whisk together syrup, balsamic vinegar and cider vinegar.

FRITTERS

Rub potato slices with 1/2 teaspoon oil, season with 1/4 teaspoon salt and bake at 375 degrees until tender when pierced with fork, about 25 minutes. Dice potato. (Peeled potato may also be boiled whole, then diced.) Set aside.

Roast red and green bell peppers and jalapen~os over flame until blackened. Place in bowl and cover until cool. Peel, seed and dice. Set aside.

Slice kernels from ear of corn. Set aside.

Combine flour, cornmeal, baking powder, remaining teaspoon salt and pepper to taste. Add potatoes, bell peppers, jalapen~os, corn and green onions and mix carefully with dry ingredients.

Beat egg with milk and add to flour mixture. Mix well.

Heat oil 3 inches deep in fryer, wok or saucepan to 325 degrees. Drop in batter by tablespoons. Cook in small batches until each fritter is golden brown on both sides, 7 to 10 minutes per batch.

About 35 fritters. Each fritter:

56 calories; 613 mg sodium; 6 mg cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 8 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.08 gram fiber.

11 tablespoons sauce. Each tablespoon:

38 calories; 1 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 10 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0 fiber.

GERRI’s BBQ SAUCE (IT’S A SNAP)

Gilliland serves her signature barbecue sauce as a dip after the meat has cooked. It works well with ribs, brisket or chicken. Gilliland doctors K.C. Masterpiece Sauce when she makes the sauce, though many other bottled sauces would work as well.

1/2 large red bell pepper, cut in large pieces

1/2 large onion, cut in large pieces

4 cups bottled barbecue sauce

3 tablespoons Dijon mustard

3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

1/2 cup dark molasses

2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

Process bell pepper and onion in blender until finely chopped.

Combine barbecue sauce, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, molasses, thyme, basil and parsley in large bowl and add bell pepper-onion mixture. Stir until well blended. Serve immediately or refrigerate, allowing sauce to come to room temperature 30 minutes before using.

5 cups. Each tablespoon:

15 calories; 125 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 3 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.09 gram fiber.

MARINATED GOAT CHEESE

Once the cheese is removed from its marinade, the flavored oil can be used to season cooked pasta or vegetables, to make salad dressings or as a marinade for chicken, fish or vegetables.

Olive oil

4 heads plus 4 cloves garlic

3 (5 1/2-ounce) logs goat cheese, sliced into 8 pieces

8 sprigs thyme

2 bay leaves, crumbled

1 large sprig rosemary

1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

Salt, pepper

36 black olives, Mediterranean or Greek, pitted if desired

24 sun-dried tomatoes in oil

1 to 2 baguettes, sliced, optional

Pour 4 tablespoons olive oil over whole, unpeeled heads of garlic in small baking dish. Roast in oven at 350 degrees 30 to 40 minutes. (Can also be roasted directly on outdoor grill.)

Peel and sliver 4 cloves garlic.

Place cheese slices, thyme, bay leaves, rosemary, slivered garlic, pepper flakes and salt and pepper to taste in small deep dish. Add enough olive oil to cover and let marinate at least 1 hour. (Note: Cheese can be refrigerated in its oil up to 1 month.)

Remove cheese from marinade and arrange on serving platter surrounded by olives, sun-dried tomatoes and roasted garlic. Serve bread in basket on side.

12 servings. Each serving, without bread:

128 calories; 168 mg sodium; 18 mg cholesterol; 11 grams fat; 1 gram carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 0.08 gram fiber.

GERRI’S BARBECUE SEASONING AND BASTE (VEGETARIAN)

For her barbecued ribs and chicken and even grilled portabello mushrooms, Gilliland does indeed have a secret sauce--and salt. She uses her special garlic baste and seasoned salt on just about anything that can go on a grill. The recipes for the salt and baste can be halved or doubled to accommodate the amount of meat or vegetables being cooked. It’s a good idea to make a large batch of the seasoned salt to have on hand throughout the grilling season. Vegetarians who shy away from barbecuing because there’s always so much meat should try the seasoned portabellos on the grill; they’re fantastic.

SEASONED SALT

1 cup kosher salt

1/2 cup garlic powder

3 tablespoons cayenne pepper

1 tablespoon white pepper

1 tablespoon black pepper

1 teaspoon onion powder

GARLIC BASTE

1 cup ground garlic

2 cups red wine vinegar

4 cups olive oil

MEATS AND MUSHROOMS

6 (3 1/2-pound) chickens, quartered or 6 pounds (6 slabs) baby back ribs or 24 portabello mushrooms or combination

SEASONED SALT

Combine salt, garlic powder, cayenne, white pepper, black pepper and onion powder.

GARLIC BASTE

Combine garlic and vinegar. Slowly pour in oil and whisk.

MEATS AND MUSHROOMS

Place chicken, meat or mushrooms on well-heated greased grill. Sprinkle with Seasoned Salt and baste with Garlic Baste. Season and baste during cooking and turn as needed. Grill chicken until juices run clear when meat is pierced with fork, about 45 minutes. Grill ribs until tender and browned, about 35 minutes. Grill portabello mushrooms 8 to 10 minutes.

12 servings. Each 1/2 chicken:

1,381 calories; 7,369 mg sodium; 304 mg cholesterol; 115 grams fat; 8 grams carbohydrates; 77 grams protein; 0.46 gram fiber.

2 cups Seasoned Salt. Each tablespoon:

9 calories; 2,908 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 2 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.17 gram fiber.

6 cups Garlic Baste. Each tablespoon:

82 calories; 1 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 1 gram carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.02 gram fiber.

BLUE CHEESE-ENDIVE SALAD WITH CANDIED WALNUTS (IT’S A SNAP)

3/4 cup walnut halves

1 1/2 tablespoons sugar

Oil

1 head endive

12 cups baby greens (about 10 ounces)

1/2 cup crumbled blue cheese

1/2 cup Cranberry Vinaigrette

Place walnut halves in saucepan, add water to cover and bring to boil. As soon as water comes to boil, drain walnuts and toss with sugar until well coated. Cool.

Heat oil in skillet over medium heat and deep-fry walnuts, stirring often, until sugar crystallizes, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain on paper towels and store at room temperature.

Chop 1/2 endive and save rest for garnish.

Combine chopped endive and baby greens and toss with blue cheese and walnuts. Toss with 1/2 cup Cranberry Vinaigrette and garnish with reserved whole endive leaves.

12 servings. Each serving:

140 calories; 91 mg sodium; 4 mg cholesterol; 10 grams fat; 8 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 1.03 gram fiber.

CRANBERRY VINAIGRETTE (IT’S A SNAP)

Unless you’re cooking for a really huge crowd, this recipe will make more than you’ll need to dress Gilliland’s Blue Cheese-Endive Salad. The remaining dressing will keep about a week in the refrigerator and can be used on other salads or as a basting sauce for chicken or fish.

2/3 cup Port

3 tablespoons chopped shallots

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

2 tablespoons sugar

1/2 cup dried cranberries

1/2 cup oil

Combine Port, shallots, vinegar, sugar and cranberries in heavy saucepan and simmer until alcohol has evaporated, 5 to 10 minutes. Let cool, then whisk in oil. Refrigerate several hours or overnight before using.

1 1/2 cups. Each 2-tablespoon serving:

151 calories; 0 mg sodium; 0 mg cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 11 grams carbohydrates; 0 grams protein; 0.52 grams fiber.

APPLE PIE WITH WALNUT STREUSEL TOPPING

A scoop of vanilla ice cream is the perfect garnish for this pie.

STREUSEL

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter

2 cups flour

2 teaspoons cinnamon

2 teaspoons grated nutmeg

1 cup sugar

1 1/2 cups chopped walnuts

PIE

18 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and sliced

1 1/4 cups sugar

1/4 cup flour

2 teaspoons cinnamon

2 (9-inch) unbaked pie shells

2 cups whipping cream

2 eggs

STREUSEL

Cut butter into flour and add cinnamon, nutmeg, sugar and walnuts. Mix well. Refrigerate until needed.

PIE

Combine apples with sugar, flour and cinnamon. Toss well and divide between 2 pie shells. Mix cream and eggs and pour evenly over apples in pie shells.

Bake at 375 degrees until crust is lightly browned and filling is bubbling, about 1 hour.

Remove from oven. Divide Streusel between each pie, sprinkling over top and building to dome in center. Return to oven and bake until crust is golden brown and apples are tender when pierced with fork, about 30 minutes. Serve warm or cool.

12 to 16 servings. Each of 16 servings:

582 calories; 117 mg sodium; 83 mg cholesterol; 32 grams fat; 73 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 1.37 grams fiber.

Menu

Marinated Goat Cheese with Roasted Garlic, Olives and Sun Dried Tomatoes

Potato-Corn Fritters with Maple Dipping Sauce

Blue Cheese-Endive Salad with Candied Walnuts and Cranberry Vinaigrette

Spiced Grilled Chicken, Ribs, Portabellos with Barbecue Sauce

Apple Pie With Walnut Streusel Topping With Vanilla Ice Cream

Countdown

Day before: Make cranberry vinaigrette.

Day before or morning of party: Make barbecue sauce; refrigerate. Candy walnuts; store at room temperature in plastic bag. Make dipping sauce for the fritters. Prepare seasoned salt; store at room temperature. Prepare garlic baste; refrigerate. Marinate goat cheese.

Morning of party: Prepare the fritter mixture up to the point of frying; refrigerate. Roast garlic.

3 hours before party: Bake apple pies. Cool and store at room temperature.

1 hour before party: Wash and dry baby greens and endive for salad. Chop endive for salad and add to greens; refrigerate. Turn on grill.

45 minutes before: Heat oil for deep-frying fritters.

30 minutes before: Fry fritters. Place barbecue sauce in serving bowl and store at room temperature.

15 minutes before: Begin grilling chicken, ribs and portabellos. Arrange goat cheese, olives, roasted garlic and sun-dried tomatoes on serving platter.

Last-minute preparations: Slice bread and place in basket. Set out fritters with dipping sauce, goat cheese platter and bread basket.

After appetizers: Assemble blue cheese-endive salad, dress with vinaigrette and serve. Serve grilled chicken, ribs and portabellos with barbecue sauce on the side.

After main course: Serve apple pie. Place vanilla ice cream in large bowl. Make Coffee.

Ingredients

Shopping List

18 Granny Smith apples

1 to 2 baguettes

2 (18-ounce) bottles barbecue sauce

1 bunch fresh basil

1/2 pound black olives, Mediterranean or Greek

2 1/2 ounces blue cheese, crumbled

3 (5 1/2-ounce) logs goat cheese

6 (3 1/2-pound) chickens or 6 pounds (6 slabs) baby back ribs or 24 portabello mushrooms or combination

1 ear corn

3 ounces dried cranberries

1 pint whipping cream

1 head endive

10 ounces baby greens

1 bunch green onions

2 jalapen~os

1 large onion

1 bunch fresh parsley

1 green bell pepper

1 red bell pepper

2 (9-inch) unbaked pie shells

1 (750-ml) bottle Port

1 baking potato

1 bunch rosemary

3 shallots

1 (8-ounce) jar sun-dried tomatoes packed in oil

1 bunch fresh thyme

1/4 pound walnut halves

1/2 pound chopped walnuts

1/2 gallon vanilla ice cream

Staples

Balsamic vinegar

Baking powder

Bay leaves

Butter

Cider vinegar

Cinnamon

Dijon mustard

Eggs

Flour

Fresh garlic

Black pepper

Cayenne pepper

White pepper

Garlic powder

Oil

Olive oil

Onion powder

Kosher salt

Maple syrup

Milk

Molasses

Nutmeg

Red pepper flakes

Red wine vinegar

Salt

White sugar

Worcestershire sauce

Yellow cornmeal

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Gerri Gilliland’s Party Rules

*Cook the foods you really love.

*Have enough space for people to wander.

*Play a mix of really good music.

*Put to work those people who always congregate in the kitchen.

*Enjoy yourself. If you do, everyone else will.