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In the Mood / Fried Chicken

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An All-American favorite:

* Roscoe’s: Seasoned, battered and fried, the chicken at this popular small chain can be ordered with greens, beans and rice, grits, rice and gravy, smothered potatoes--or waffles! (Chicken and waffles, $5 to $10, depending on quantities desired.) Roscoe’s Chicken & Waffles, 1514 N. Gower St., Los Angeles, (213) 466-7453; 106 W. Manchester Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 752-6211; 5006 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 934-4405; 830 N. Lake Ave., Pasadena, (818) 791-4890.

* Jake & Annie’s: The golden-brown, crisp, buttermilk fried chicken comes with an updated Hopping John (a mix of black-eyed peas, corn, okra and applewood-smoked bacon), mashed Yukon gold potatoes and gravy. (Chicken dinner, $12.95.) Jake & Annie’s, 2700 Main St., Santa Monica, (310) 452-1734.

* Rosti: While famous for its grilled pollo al mattone, these Tuscan takeout cafes also offer pollo alla Milanese con checca, a breaded pounded chicken breast topped with juicy chopped tomatoes and basil, with the house’s dreamy roasted rosemary potatoes alongside. (Pollo alla Milanese, $8.50.) Rosti, 908 S. Barrington Ave., Brentwood, (310) 447-8695; Encino Marketplace, 16403 Ventura Blvd., (818) 995-7179; 931 Montana Ave., (310) 393-3236; and other locations.

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* Aunt Kizzy’s Back Porch: Adolf and Mary Dulan make their famous fried chicken just the way Adolf’s mother did back home on the farm in Oklahoma--except they fry it in peanut oil, rather than lard. “The breading is nothing fancy,” Adolf Dulan says, “just a little seasoned salt and garlic powder, flour and pepper.” Three pieces of chicken come with two vegetables and a choice of mashed potatoes, rice or cornbread stuffing. (Fried chicken dinner $11.95.) Aunt Kizzy’s Back Porch, Villa Marina Shopping Center, 4325 Glencoe Ave., Marina del Rey, (310) 578-1005.

* 8:30 Cafe: The pleasantly spicy, breaded fried chicken at this Pasadena newcomer comes with a choice of two side dishes, including red beans and rice, okra-corn-and-tomatoes; collard greens; yams; black-eyed peas; green beans; mashed potatoes and gravy; and rice and gravy. (Fried chicken dinner, $9.30 dark meat, $10.30 all white meat.) 8:30 Cafe, 36 E. Holly St., Pasadena, (626) 405-9492.

* Georgia: The Southern-fried mildly spicy battered chicken here has a large and loyal following. Mostly de-boned, it’s served with collard greens and macaroni and cheese. (Fried chicken dinner, $15.) Georgia, 7250 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 933-8420.

* Sabor: Although Sabor serves mostly bright-tasting south-of-the-border dishes, the crusty Cajun-spiced fried chicken is unbeatable. Half a chicken comes with terrific mashed potatoes and gravy, and a vegetable. (Fried chicken dinner, $12.95.) Sabor, 3221 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica, (310) 829-3781.

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