Tofu

Tofu is ineluctably entering the main food supply--and no wonder: It comes in a variety of compelling textures and is endlessly versatile and healthful.

* Tung Lai Shun: This Islamic Chinese restaurant serves a lovely, clear vegetable soup with spinach, mushrooms and quivery chunks of tofu. ($4.) Tung Lai Shun, 140 W. Valley Blvd., San Gabriel, (626) 288-6588.

* Victoria Seafood Restaurant: At lunch, try a plate of sauteed oysters and tofu in oyster sauce that exhibits a subtle, wonderful play of smoothness and resilience between the bean curd and the bivalve. ($4.25.) Victoria Seafood Restaurant, 143 W. Garvey Ave., Monterey Park, (626) 280-3339.

* Mandarette: The sliced tofu here, topped with scallions, cilantro and sesame oil and served cold, is so good you’ll never forget it. The chef also makes a delicious sauteed tofu skin in wine sauce. (Sliced tofu, $4.75; tofu skin, $9.50.) Mandarette, 8386 Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood, (213) 655-6115.

* Mandarin Deli: A small appetizer salad of shredded thin tofu, tossed in a light garlic vinaigrette, is tasty, compellingly chewy and downright addictive. ($2.75.) Mandarin Deli, 727 N. Broadway, Suite 109, Chinatown, (213) 623-6054; 356 E. 2nd St., Little Tokyo, (213) 617-0231; 701 W. Garvey Ave., Monterey Park, (626) 570-9795; 9305 Reseda Blvd., Northridge, (818) 993-0122.

* Newsroom Cafe: Chef Eddie J. Caraeff smokes his own tofu, then marinates it in ginger, garlic and soy sauce. The result, a tasty extra-firm tofu, then appears in various dishes, including Spicy Noodles Diablo and the very popular Indonesian Gado Gado salad with warm black, brown, red and wild rice, cold organic salad greens, warm tofu and a cashew ginger dressing. (Spicy Noodles Diablo, $8.95; Gado Gado with tofu, $9.50.) Newsroom Cafe, 120 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 652-4444.

* Yujean Kang’s: Never has tofu been so stylishly presented: Try the thin, prettily tied, sauteed tofu knots with fresh soybeans in the West Hollywood restaurant. In Pasadena, try braised bean curd sheets with assorted mushrooms. (Tofu knots, $12; braised bean curd sheets, $10.) Yujean Kang’s, 67 N. Raymond Ave., Pasadena, (626) 585-0855; 8826 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, (310) 288-0806.

* Mishima: Thanks to the freshest, fluffiest tofu, this noodle house’s tofu salad with sprouts, lettuce, fried rice noodles and a mayonnaise-based sesame sauce is a real knockout. ($4.75.) Mishima, 11301 Olympic Blvd., West Los Angeles, (310) 473-5297; 8474 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles, (213) 782-0181; 21605 S. Western Ave., Torrance, (310) 320-2089.