Legume Soup

On a cool, crisp winter day, there’s little better than a hot, thick bean or pea soup:

* Orso: Chef Cliff Roselli’s soup repertoire includes both the split pea and potato, and hearty sausage and white bean soups. (Soups, $6.) Orso, 8706 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles, (310) 274-7144.

* The Grill: How about a bowl of stick-to-your-ribs, ham-free split pea soup? (Pea soup, cup, $4.25; bowl, $5.50.) The Grill on the Alley, 9560 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills, (310) 276-0615.

* Ago: Chef Agostino Ago makes a dreamy zuppa di farro with plump borlotti beans and spelt (the grain that Roman armies ate before battle), and an equally good zuppa di pane with cannellini beans, cabbage, onions and toasted country bread. (Soups, $6.) Ago, 8478 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, (213) 655-6333.

* Canter’s: A sturdy, hunger-vanquishing bean and barley is available every day. On Wednesdays, there is an equally filling pea soup. (Soup, cup $2.50; pint to go, $2.71.) Canter’s, 419 Fairfax Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 651-2030.

* 2087, an American Bistro: Onions, slow-roasted tomatoes, celery and fennel swim along with cannellini beans in this excellent “American bistro” version of white bean and vegetable soup. (Soup, $4.50.) 2087, 2087 E. Thousand Oaks Blvd., Thousand Oaks, (805) 374-2087.

* Il Moro: The pasta e fagioli is made with a puree of tasty Italian borlotti beans and fresh, homemade maltagliati (“badly cut”) pasta. (Soups, $5.50.) Il Moro, 11400 W. Olympic Blvd., West Los Angeles, (310) 575-3530.

* Xiomara: Cuban black bean soup is built on a fragrant, classic sofrito (saute) of onions and peppers and infused with just the right edge of cumin and Spanish olive oil. This New World version is vegetarian and served with ribbons of fried green plantains. (Black bean soup, $6.) Xiomara, 69 N. Raymond Ave., Pasadena, (626) 796-2520.

* Spago Beverly Hills: Mint sings in Lee Hefter’s fresh, astonishingly green spring pea and sugar snap soup with Maine “peeky-toe” crab and opal basil. (Pea soup, $9.50.) Spago Beverly Hills, 176 N. Canon Drive, (310) 385-0880.

* Da Pasquale: Chef Anna Mora varies her soups, but it’s worth keeping an eye out for her fagioli escarole made with cannellini beans and escarole, and her pasta e fagioli. (Soups, $4.) Da Pasquale, 9749 Little Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, (310) 859-3884.

* Brent’s Deli: Those of us who love the mighty lima don’t mind the drive to Northridge where Brent’s makes a rich, creamy lima bean soup. (Cup, $2.50; bowl, $3.75.) Brent’s Deli, 19565 Parthenia Ave., Northridge, (818) 886-5679.